tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59205570575910596302024-03-13T19:29:00.654+01:00THE BIG TRIP ... an outdoor life hiking, cycling and paddlingUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger600125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-78997791578930120492021-05-14T21:23:00.002+02:002021-05-14T21:23:34.788+02:00Europe Diagonal: Interlude in Greece<div>Back in my home base in Berlin I have been deliberating trail options. Not too many countries are open without quarantine and not even all of these are interesting to me as a hiker. And after miscalculating my chances of a straight thruhike to Finland I was now looking for a "safe" option - which appeared in the form of Greece! The country announced complete opening to tourists starting from May 15th - no quarantine, open hotels, open museums and no travel restrictions - only a PCR test required. </div><div><br /></div><div>Still my planning didn't first work out. I booked a cheap flight to Crete, which was cancelled only two days later ... After much deliberation I booked another, not quite so cheap flight. </div><div><br /></div><div>I had also hoped to be able to get at least my first Corona vaccination during my stay in Germany - but no such luck. And with vaccines being scarce but plenty of people fighting to get it the situation will not improve too soon. But as soon as I am able to scare a vaccination date I will return to Germany - as much as I hate flying back and forth. But this crazy Corona year requires special measures. I will not be able to do one long straight thruhike, but at least I can do several shorter hikes. </div><div><br /></div><div>The E4 in Crete seems to be perfect for this weird situation. First of all it is on my route "Europe Diagonal" from Ireland to Greece. The length of the E4 in Crete is around 500 kilometers and can easily be extended into Peloponnes and Northern Greece, also on my route. I'll start at the Eastern terminus of the E4 in Crete and keep going until the vaccination calls me back to Germany.</div><div><br /></div><div>I am really looking forward to this hike because of two reasons: Although I have travelled extensively all over the world, I have never been in Greece. And after having hiked through snow storms for six weeks in Poland I am ready for some warm weather now!</div><div><br /></div><div>
<iframe height="350" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1DUViCNe_rQsKCvEu36kw4OFCfpIT0zJI" width="520"></iframe></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-28625496141559992192021-05-13T21:16:00.005+02:002021-05-13T21:17:27.125+02:00Poland: Goldap to Lithuanian border<p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QbBg7nkxX8Q/YJ1yN8gyCLI/AAAAAAAAHJA/NIRh46XAyT07KeK3_S_3h36mCwtI9MpAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210424_145828.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QbBg7nkxX8Q/YJ1yN8gyCLI/AAAAAAAAHJA/NIRh46XAyT07KeK3_S_3h36mCwtI9MpAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210424_145828.jpg" /></a></div>The Pusza Romincka (Rominter Heide) is a huge forest, now partly in the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad and partly in Poland. The border is only marked by a couple of boundary stones - and I stayed clear of it! German emperor Wilhelm II used to hunt here - as did Hermann Göring. I found this withered memorial in the middle of a swampy forest, the inscription says that His Majesty Emporer Wilhelm II shot a buck here in 1908. <p></p><p>When I reached my prebooked room in a agroturystyka that evening a landrover stopped by me and a camouflage clad guy waved me over. I took him for the landlord but soon discovered that this was Polish border patrol! "Documentation!" I was asked and his female partner tried to check my ID while I was explaining in English what I was doing here. They did not believe me it seemed but still let me go. At least they did not take me for a an alcohol or cigarette smuggler. My room in the agroturystyka cost my just 15 Euro but could have been a 4 star hotel. Needless to say I was the only guest.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wee3TfqN4qI/YJ10ftyVnYI/AAAAAAAAHJI/uk7crxl1TmEshWYraoAcBIuTmBYCegDSQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210425_164255-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wee3TfqN4qI/YJ10ftyVnYI/AAAAAAAAHJI/uk7crxl1TmEshWYraoAcBIuTmBYCegDSQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210425_164255-01.jpeg" /></a></div>It was still snowing every day now end of April and I ditched camping. Accommodation was plentiful and cheap, mainly because of the Green Velo, a popular bike route through Eastern Poland. <div>I passed the former monastery of Wigry, founded by the Camaldoli order - a place in Italy that I had visited just the year before. Now hotel guests live in the fomer hermit's cells. </div><div>I discovered former Russian Orthodox churches and a Jewish cemetery - this area has housed so many now forgotten people and cultures. </div><div>I was very lucky with my second last accommodation. The landlady, eight month pregnant, spoke fluent English because she had worked in the UK before. When I left after a hearty breakfast, Joana gave me her private cell phone number - just in case. She must have had foresight! </div><div>When I reached my final destination at the Lithuanian border, the pilgrimage town of Sejny the famous church was already closed. I had made a reservation at the only hotel in town via booking.com, but when I arrived the place was all locked up.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f7_AnW3NXrk/YJ12gdEWnLI/AAAAAAAAHJQ/XjgirvE0M702GbzTb209nQ3NjKaeLzDvACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210428_130745-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f7_AnW3NXrk/YJ12gdEWnLI/AAAAAAAAHJQ/XjgirvE0M702GbzTb209nQ3NjKaeLzDvACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210428_130745-01.jpeg" /></a></div>I called the phone number on the confirmation but whoever answered the phone only spoke Polish - and just hung up on me. When I tried to call again - no one picked up the phone. Why bother with an ignorant tourist! Never ever such a thing had happened to me before. When I reported this incident to booking.com after my trip, I was not even offered an excuse or given any compensation! My review was not published on their website. I have used booking.com for over a hundred of bookings - and am deeply disappointed now. They take your money - but don't help you when there is a problem. "We are not responsible", was there only answer to my written complaint ...<div>But luckily I had Joana's phone number. When I told her about my problem, she jumped into her car, picked me up and even gave me dinner! </div><div>And now comes the sad ending of this hike ...</div><div><br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uVUXbaxElgw/YJ15Ie0bBuI/AAAAAAAAHJY/W2tHwhxzmsADuPIeEGoTTt-uyrJT5pREACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210429_170919.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uVUXbaxElgw/YJ15Ie0bBuI/AAAAAAAAHJY/W2tHwhxzmsADuPIeEGoTTt-uyrJT5pREACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210429_170919.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bialystok</td></tr></tbody></table><div>Due to Corona I was only allowed to cross into Lithuania with a negative test - and a seven day quarantine. Which is a long time for a country that I would traverse in 2,5 weeks. Plus the situation in all three Baltic countries was the same. I had decided to go back to Germany and do another hike in the meantime. </div><div>But Poland was now considered a high-risk country in Germany which meant I could only come back with a negative Corona test. And as it turned out that was difficult to obtain in Poland. PCR tests were easy to find but very expensive. Antigene tests were accepted in Germany but rarely available in Poland. The closest test center was in Bialystok - and Joana was going there to have a check up of her pregnancy. She and her Bulgarian husband took me directly to the test center and even inquired for me if they offered the right test. I still had to wait 2,5 hours in the cold before it was my turn. I have never seen so much inefficiency as in the test center ... After a short sightseeing tour through Bialystok I took the train back to Berlin where I also had to go into quarantine - but only for five days which are tolerable when you have Wifi and a laptop to work with. I hope to be able to continue towards Finland later this summer!<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-7768655426712104612021-05-13T20:32:00.002+02:002021-05-13T20:32:10.540+02:00Poland: Across Masuria from Olsztyn to Goldap<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IeNxXpkrn9c/YJ1fMwLMrGI/AAAAAAAAHHk/kjLai4eSANgr4IKRa4sp7wONc0_DjKEmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210413_144145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IeNxXpkrn9c/YJ1fMwLMrGI/AAAAAAAAHHk/kjLai4eSANgr4IKRa4sp7wONc0_DjKEmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210413_144145.jpg" /></a>Although Olsztyn (Allenstein) had survived WW II relatively undamaged, it was destroyed by the Soviet Army, the German population was displaced. Nowadays most of the old city has been beautifully restored and enjoyed my sightseeing trip through the Allenstein's brick Gothic churches. The city caters mostly for German tourists: When I came to close the cathedral's altar, the alarm system sounded in form of a prerecorded announcement: "Don't step into the altar area" in Polish<b> and</b> in German ...</p><p>Even hiking out of Olsztyn was a delight: The E11 follows the river Lina with plenty of scenic paths and rest areas. (Alas it was too cold to rest ...) In the tiny village of Barkweda I encountered a big poster of Napoleon. A quick internet research revealed that Napoleon fought a battle here against the Prussians and Russians to cross the river. Napoleon won. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fWFEABXohU4/YJ1e56JxOUI/AAAAAAAAHHc/AloYG_ae6RsCTI6gkiZEcVCussFKXfhvgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210415_142702-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fWFEABXohU4/YJ1e56JxOUI/AAAAAAAAHHc/AloYG_ae6RsCTI6gkiZEcVCussFKXfhvgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210415_142702-01.jpeg" /></a></div>The next days were a historical delight. I walked through Dobre Miasto (Guttstadt) and Lidbark Warminski (Heilsberg), both former German towns. Most of the old houses have been destroyed, but both places still sport huge brick cathedrals which stick out of modern communist housing blocks in a bizarre way. Heilsberg had another surprise in form of an WW I (!) PoW cemetery. <p></p><p>In the tiny village of Schmolainen the E11 made a strange long detour. I briefly thought of shortcutting it - and luckily I didn't! The trail took me to the former sommer residence of the bishop of Ermland. After 1945 the former castle was used as an agricultural school, but is now being restored to its former glory. It is set in the middle of a beautiful park that could be the film set for a fairy tale movie. Old trees, overgrown hedges, small path and thick walls that can only be crosses through theses wrought-iron gates. I could have wandered around much longer but several stray dogs decided to chase me out of their domain ...</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3rFovmzmrCs/YJ1ltUlFfXI/AAAAAAAAHHs/ItIxkLve6YEo2_3Q_6Euzvi8ZqIY8H9NQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210416_163728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3rFovmzmrCs/YJ1ltUlFfXI/AAAAAAAAHHs/ItIxkLve6YEo2_3Q_6Euzvi8ZqIY8H9NQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210416_163728.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloister of Stoczek monastery</td></tr></tbody></table>87% of Polish people are Catholic nowadays. Therefore it does not come as a surprise that several pilgrimage sites are located along the route. I had never heard of Stoczek (Springborn) before and the huge monastery plus church looks a bit like a UFO in the middle of the namesake village with only 300 inhabitants. Wandering around the big complex I even came across a pilgrimage hostel with its doors wide open - but nobody there to check me in! Because I expected the hostel to be closed due to Corona I did not dare to check me in myself. After half an hour of knocking on every door but getting no answer I left the place and frustatredly decided to camp.<div>Something similar happened in Swietka Lipa (Heiligelinde), a baroque gem with a world famous organ. I came right on time for evening service and could recharge my phone. But due to Corona public toilets and the pilgrimage hostel were closed, due to night frost water fountains still turned off. Again I had to wander through endless corridors until I found a water tap. When I left with my refilled bottles a monk was just about to close the monastery gate - I slipped out in the very last minute.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oRg2NYw4xYY/YJ1ltarTEhI/AAAAAAAAHHw/yGYvmhusld4M-Oe9yoFHsHIcEEcsYWviQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210418_123306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oRg2NYw4xYY/YJ1ltarTEhI/AAAAAAAAHHw/yGYvmhusld4M-Oe9yoFHsHIcEEcsYWviQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210418_123306.jpg" /></a></div>I arrived in Ketzryn (Rastenburg) on a Sunday morning - ideal for recharging my phone again because now all the churches would be open. They were open indeed but masses were scheduled every hour and people were even standing outside to attend. No way I could sneak in and look for an electrical outlet. After trying my luck at several churches I arrived at the brick Gothic cathedral just between two services. While my electronic devices were recharging I discovered paintings of Luther and Melanchthon on the pulpit - in a Catholic church! An information board (in Polish and German) gave me the solution: The majority of the former German population had been Protestant, therefore this Catholic cathedral had been Protestant until 1945. </div><div>Next was a very unholy place: Hitler's Wolf's Lair which has been turned into a sort of historical amusement park. I had already visited this place on my bike trip through Poland several years ago. Back then you could still play paintball in General Jodl's bunker ...</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-erEfq8mU4Tk/YJ1tnaigW0I/AAAAAAAAHIE/Nl1pUjB04Lc6umFNXnjpxMOXMEvfKF5aQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210418_172701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-erEfq8mU4Tk/YJ1tnaigW0I/AAAAAAAAHIE/Nl1pUjB04Lc6umFNXnjpxMOXMEvfKF5aQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210418_172701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>This time I just walked past but even outside the fenced in pay area there were plenty of bunkers to see. <div>Next day took me to the dilapidated castle of Steinort, where one of the members of the July 20th, 1944 attempt had lived and been arrested. Despite its historical importance the place is about to collapse and the park is completely overgrown. In front of the estate a huge modern marine overlooks Mamry, one of the biggest Masurian lakes. I recharged my phone in the public restrooms which were totally empty due to still freezing temperatures. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bz3rgVX4qJA/YJ1vMiyq92I/AAAAAAAAHIM/bTDRBXwhWpgmHEuAp4TLTCAo7xxliOuZACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210419_150941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bz3rgVX4qJA/YJ1vMiyq92I/AAAAAAAAHIM/bTDRBXwhWpgmHEuAp4TLTCAo7xxliOuZACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210419_150941.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Despite the cold this section along endless crystal clear lakes was a delight. This lake district is pretty flat but close to Goldap I passed a ski centre with several lifts! The highest "mountain" rose up to 274 meters ...<div>I had rented a holiday apartment in Goldap where the landlady greeted me with a bottle of champagne, fruit and cake! And that is not all: Next day she arrived at noon with a Schnitzel for lunch - for free! I most have looked very hungry. Because it was still so cold I went to the visitor information centre were the friendly English speaking staff made a dozen phone calls to find accommodation for me for the next section. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-42717235460430280612021-05-01T21:39:00.001+02:002021-05-02T11:36:09.603+02:00Poland: Poznan to Olsztyn<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hpWb_Z8iyYw/YI1e80t2lNI/AAAAAAAAHGM/PzZ-TlYHsQggRS6y1Md55fQVQIrnar3kwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210328_123910.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hpWb_Z8iyYw/YI1e80t2lNI/AAAAAAAAHGM/PzZ-TlYHsQggRS6y1Md55fQVQIrnar3kwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210328_123910.jpg" width="320" /></a> After Poznan I finally left the Camino and continued on hiking trails. This route had been a suggestion of accomplished Polish long-distance hiker <a href="http://acrossthewilderness.blogspot.com/2021/04/wielkopolska-szlak-czerwonak-jezioro.html#comment-form" target="_blank">Agnieska aka Zebra</a>. Her goal is to hike all Polish long-distance trails - and therefore she and another Polish hiker friend joined me for the next section. Michal aka Shakespeare did not know who I was but immediately recognised me when I met him in the parking lot of the train station were Zebra was to arrive soon. There are not too many ultralight hikers around in Poland ... Before embarking we had a quick lunch consisting of all leftovers from Michal's kitchen. We then followed the blazes - and immediately ended in a bushwhack because the trail has not been maintained for decades ...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b5goI8Nvvg0/YI1lAd3rH6I/AAAAAAAAHGU/Z9rJu-p3r3M1nLD-66egsFQF4r0zGn1NQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210329_115908.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b5goI8Nvvg0/YI1lAd3rH6I/AAAAAAAAHGU/Z9rJu-p3r3M1nLD-66egsFQF4r0zGn1NQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210329_115908.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Although the landscape was still pretty flat and monotonous hiking was a lot better now because there was very littel pavement and mostly trail, even boardwalks around lakes! Plus we were mainly in forests. With two native speakers it was no problem to ask for water at houses because there were no good natural water sources. With lots of practice even I learnt the question "Can I please have some tap water" in Polish. We bought more food in a small supermarket and had a real hiker trash meeting in the parking lot. I almost felt like back in the US! <div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SSPcISeJR6Q/YI1nC14ANhI/AAAAAAAAHGc/gaFzjwa-41EY3hM8nTSHTKF0pjGQAxwmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210328_144214.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SSPcISeJR6Q/YI1nC14ANhI/AAAAAAAAHGc/gaFzjwa-41EY3hM8nTSHTKF0pjGQAxwmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210328_144214.jpg" /></a></div>Although Zebra and Shakespeare were constantly doing some stretching exercises we still made good progress. I was fantastic to have some thruhiker company and enjoyed these 2,5 days hiking with them tremendously. But they wanted to complete this <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7JX4jIqdcc" target="_blank">specific hiking trail</a> which continued to Pila whereas I was heading northeast towards Bydgoszcz. After I tearful goodbye we went our separate ways. <div>I had to cross the very agricultural plains of river Netze where it was even hard to find a place to pee because there was no bush or tree. After one night camping on my own I was to have more company. Beata, a Polish pilgrim had invited me into her home for a night. Her invitation came right in time because I needed some stuff sent to me from Germany and I could use her address. On a Spanish Camino she had made friends with some Germans who follow me on social media. When they realised that my route passed almost directly at her home they asked her to invite me in. What a small world! I spent a wonderful evening with Beata and her husband who both speak excellent German and learnt a lot about Poland!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tTaPnKRL9rw/YI1p-yNQmsI/AAAAAAAAHGk/6ikQWSlyLj03T2gSyDtHarfsyQhT3rnigCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210403_135333.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tTaPnKRL9rw/YI1p-yNQmsI/AAAAAAAAHGk/6ikQWSlyLj03T2gSyDtHarfsyQhT3rnigCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210403_135333.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I spent a rest day in Bromberg (Bydgoszcz) because there was so much to see. As it was Easter I wanted to attend a mass. Due to Corona restrictions number of worshippers was restricted and people were even standing outside. When I found a church that still let me in I realized too late that is was locked during service! I had to listen to endless readings from the bible until I eventually realised there was an emergency exit where I could sneak out ...<div>When I left on my own I finally had to practice my new language skills and ask for water at a house. I mumbled my sentence - and the guy answered in perfect English: "What the heck are you doing here in the middle of nowhere?" He gave me not only water, but fruit and chocolate on top!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zuZvwmP1L54/YI1tFM9gTXI/AAAAAAAAHGs/OH_LGUsdzns8RVrIw4ZT2JNgnAANSHpHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210405_190701.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zuZvwmP1L54/YI1tFM9gTXI/AAAAAAAAHGs/OH_LGUsdzns8RVrIw4ZT2JNgnAANSHpHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210405_190701.jpg" /></a></div>Next in a series of former German towns was beautifully restored Chelmno (Kulm) where the town hall looks like out of a picture book. The next day I followed the River Wisla (Weichsel) always on top of the dyke. I really scenic section but day time max temperature was only 4 degrees in early April and I was freezing my butt off ... <div>Because my camping gear was not fit for these temperatures I booked myself into another "worker room" in Graudenz (Grudiaz) and did the next section as a day trip by bus. I had falsely assumed that the bus would leave from the bus station. First of all it was not exactly a bus but a transporter and secondly it left from a nondescript bus stop in front of a supermarket. Luckily I had scouted out everything the day before. When I left Graudenz for good on day two the "bus" driver greeted me already and knew where I was going. There were only two passengers in the bus ... </div><div><br /></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p2LfsS2PsDI/YI2tPbXpIiI/AAAAAAAAHHM/1Wp_JDW7rS0hGzCcFxcRvEowaoKeVdd0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210410_160243.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p2LfsS2PsDI/YI2tPbXpIiI/AAAAAAAAHHM/1Wp_JDW7rS0hGzCcFxcRvEowaoKeVdd0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210410_160243.jpg" /></a></div>I used the same trick in Ilawa (Eylau) where I could also hike a section as a day trip by train. I had now entered Mazuria with its many lakes. But winter temperatures in April did not lead me into temptation to swim ...</div><div>Both Ilawa and Ostroda had been mostly destroyed in World War II so there was not much to see there. But I was now on the European long-distance trail E11 - there were even signposts with the E11 sign! </div><div>Along this stretch I also saw several "half"-kayaks housing stations of the cross. When I examined this weird combination a bit closer I realised that they were located along the route Pope John Paul II had taken a boat trip in his younger age ...</div><div>The weather had been somehow sunny for a couple of days but as soon as I reached Olsztyn the temperatures dropped extremely within hours. I could wear only a shirt at lunch, had to put on a jacket at 2 pm and gloves at 5 pm ... But luckily I was due to have a rest day in town now!</div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-83389713601559164622021-05-01T14:41:00.002+02:002021-05-01T14:41:29.835+02:00Poland: Greater Poland Camino<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JHKIdnE4I0s/YI04Qa9_ByI/AAAAAAAAHF8/cV-OPQRXH-YwDanUkRSzAV6MLucmmuW8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210325_135131-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JHKIdnE4I0s/YI04Qa9_ByI/AAAAAAAAHF8/cV-OPQRXH-YwDanUkRSzAV6MLucmmuW8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210325_135131-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a>To be honest the Camino route across Poland is not really very exciting. The landscape is dead flat, there is very little forest but endless fields. The trail is often routed over paved roads. There was no protection against the ice cold winds, rain and snow. But there were lovely sections along the river Odra or the many beautiful tree alleys. I discovered lots of interesting village churches and cemeteries, often still with German tombstones. Because of the winter temperatures people weres still heating their houses. Thick black smoke came out of the chimneys which smelled horrible. At least for this reason the Corona face masks were of advantage...<br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QIOmBmhyiJE/YI04tInmcGI/AAAAAAAAHGE/CLPRXHixZeQf7WHs7UkfH0toTiw1kSvMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210325_075059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QIOmBmhyiJE/YI04tInmcGI/AAAAAAAAHGE/CLPRXHixZeQf7WHs7UkfH0toTiw1kSvMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210325_075059.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lubin monastery church</td></tr></tbody></table>Highlight of this section was the monastery in Lubin. Despite lockdown the monks let me stay in their guesthouse. I had expected a drab dormitory but there were modern single ensuite rooms even with Wifi. The monks even brought me something to eat for dinner. During morning mass it was freezing cold in the huge church ...<div>The Camino now led me through Chłapowski landscape park - but if I had not know it is a landscape park I would not have realized it ... Chłapowski was a pioneer of agriculture and introduced new methods which meant that the entire landscape park consisted mainly of endless flat fields.</div><div>Unfortunately the Camino is routed over mostly concrete although better alternatives exist nearby which I used instead.</div><div>Still my feet were hurting when I finally reached Poznan (and the end of the Camino walking for me!).</div><div>I stayed in an incredibly luxurious holiday apartment in Poznan with even a bath tub to recover from my first 10 days of hiking. And I loved Poznan with its beautifully restored city centre!</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-28521849985585302092021-05-01T10:41:00.004+02:002021-05-01T13:07:20.879+02:00Poland: Lower Silesian Camino<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tdubMDoJ5tE/YI0KkbrOIEI/AAAAAAAAHFc/sH5JADV55WIEvpHvvI-WDFoBJ6ibnS_GQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210317_105809.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tdubMDoJ5tE/YI0KkbrOIEI/AAAAAAAAHFc/sH5JADV55WIEvpHvvI-WDFoBJ6ibnS_GQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210317_105809.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the bridge across river Neiße in Görlitz</td></tr></tbody></table>Like one year ago I took the train to Görlitz - only that it snowed this time! I went to the exact same spot where I had started my hike to Italy on May 31st, 2020. Back then the sun was shining and I wore a T-shirt. On March 17th, 2021 it was bitterly cold and raining - I even had to wear a jacket. But one year ago the border was closed whereas this time I could cross without any problems. I did not even need a Corona test (althoug I had taken one just in case!). Just four hours into my hike I got a disastrous message on my smartphone. Four days from now Poland would go into a hard lockdown because infection numbers were rising exponentially. <p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sbtuMu9m-Dk/YI0MfjLlQYI/AAAAAAAAHFk/YyJ-O0Y9OFgmfxP4ffptsZBs1aF7gnZ-QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210318_182413.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sbtuMu9m-Dk/YI0MfjLlQYI/AAAAAAAAHFk/YyJ-O0Y9OFgmfxP4ffptsZBs1aF7gnZ-QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210318_182413.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Market square of Bolesławiec</td></tr></tbody></table>This news hit me hard: I had chosen Poland because hotels and museums were open - and now everything would close down! Normally this would not affect me that much because I am camping anyways and do not depend much on hotels. But the weather forecast was a nightmare with temperatures well below freezing for the next few days. I had prebooked hotels for the first few days but would they accept me now in lockdown? Tourist travel was forbidden now but as a writer I was travelling on business. The first night I stayed in a hotel in Luban which would close for lockdown. Would I even be able to find accommodation that was open?<div>I decided to hike on. Lower Silesia was once German so every town had an old German name. I discovered that there are two "Naumburgs" and walked through Bunzlau (Bolesławiec) at night where I stayed in a quite luxurious "room for workers". The quantity of the breakfast there was really meant for workers and saved me eating lunch!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hgl99Xp3Uvo/YI0QA-GXvpI/AAAAAAAAHFs/EPutovBZtrUVHGc-NUMKWMi2jO3AkX_nACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210320_152607.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hgl99Xp3Uvo/YI0QA-GXvpI/AAAAAAAAHFs/EPutovBZtrUVHGc-NUMKWMi2jO3AkX_nACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210320_152607.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The next days let me walk through various snow storms, temperatures dropped down to -6 C. In Polkowice I stayed in a hotel on the first day of lockdown. They confirmed my booking only one day before because it was still unclear who was allowed to use hotels. My publishing house had sent me a document stating that I am travelling on business which was luckily accepted wheras another hotel cancelled my booking claiming that foreigners were not allowed. When I asked at the reception what the exact rules are the receptionist just shrugged her shoulders: "We do not really know ..."<div><br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ri7cc6Y12OM/YI0R4bOxFFI/AAAAAAAAHF0/-8WI161Ga0AIuTZrx1qytuHNvZYbVUB5gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210322_171819-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ri7cc6Y12OM/YI0R4bOxFFI/AAAAAAAAHF0/-8WI161Ga0AIuTZrx1qytuHNvZYbVUB5gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210322_171819-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the Odra in Glogow</td></tr></tbody></table><div>The Lower Silesian Camino ends in Glogow (Glogau) where I crossed the river Oder on a bridge that was painted in bright pink! (No idea, why they chose this unusual color ...). The last days had been filled with snow storms and I had not met a single other hiker. In fact, my gpx track had even led me to a major construction site. Where the camino is supposed to be now a motorway is being built. I had trouble crossing it ... I had booked myself into a holiday apartment in Glogow where I even stayed two days to do the next section as a day trip by train - because no other accommodation was availabe and the weather continued to be a nightmare.</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-16604166580064876342021-03-14T23:16:00.001+01:002021-05-01T09:48:26.200+02:00Poland to Finland: The plan<p>After one year of Corona restrictions many countries are still (or again) closed to tourists, my original plan to hike in the US went down the drain. In spring 2021 there is not much choice of hiking destinations, especially if you don't want to fly. I still have two "unfinished" European traverses so it was obvious for me to pursue one of them - and the choice was easy: Last year I had started in Görlitz at the German-Polish border and had hiked South to Italy. This year I will start there again and go North through Poland, all three Baltic states and Finnland up the Finnish-Swedish border at the Gulf of Bothnia. The route is already planned out because I had intended to go there in 2020, but then had changed to Italy instead. </p><p>In this still unstable Corona situation Poland is a great choice: It borders Germany and in an emergency I can easily get back by train. More important still: Poland has currently very few restrictions for travellers. I don't need a Corona test to enter, even museums and hotels are open - and I will need accommodation at the beginning of my trip because now in March it is still bitterly cold! But most important: I have never hiked long-distance in Poland before, only short sections in the Tatras. </p><p>When I stumbled across a Polish Triple Crowner on the internet I contacted her - and <a href="https://acrossthewilderness.blogspot.com/">Agnieska aka Zebra</a> helped me to find a better route than my own concoction. I will now hike on a mixture of pilgrimage trails, the European long-distance trail E11 and self-designed routes. </p><p>If I will be allowed to enter Lithuania by the time I get there, I will continue on the<a href="http://www.caminolituano.com/home-en/" target="_blank"> Camino Lituano</a>, followed by the <a href="https://caminolatvia.com/" target="_blank">Camino Latvia</a> and the<a href="https://baltictrails.eu/en/coastal?lang=en" target="_blank"> Coastal Trail</a> in Latvia and a <a href="https://www.loodusegakoos.ee/hiking-route/oandu-ikla-375-km" target="_blank">long-distance trail in Estonia</a>.</p><p>In Finland I'll follow the E6 which is now a project of Finnish hiker Matti who offered a wealth of route suggestions and advice.</p><p>The entire route is about 3500 km long and I'll begin with 1,200 km through Poland. </p><p>I will start as soon as the weather improves and hope to be able to succeed in hiking the entire route - but this year a lot can go wrong or cause changes. </p><p> <iframe height="350" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1_XQw3RgCrteEAFp1n4zYMcPHtQ1ZoSJb" width="520"></iframe></p>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-67357936109321255992021-03-13T12:08:00.001+01:002021-03-13T12:08:42.353+01:00Sentiero Italia and E1 in Italy: Conclusion and tipps<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uOJ9LvtBqRE/YEyJB6QqbcI/AAAAAAAAHDM/nPRrg70fyq8FpYSF9U0_L5CLO5CPN1TKgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200813_193733-02.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uOJ9LvtBqRE/YEyJB6QqbcI/AAAAAAAAHDM/nPRrg70fyq8FpYSF9U0_L5CLO5CPN1TKgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200813_193733-02.jpeg" /></a>Two long-distance trails are (theoretically) traversing the length of Italy: Sentiero Italy with a total of almost 7,000 km is spanning the entire alpine range, the length of Italy in several variants plus Sicily and Sardinia and is maintained by CAI. The E1 on the other hand shortcuts the alpine range by traversing the Po Valley, has no variants and currently ends in Fortino, although there is already E1 trail in Sicily. It is maintained by the FIE. Both trails use existing paths and often run parallel or close to each other. Where they use popular trails like the Alta Via dei Monti Ligurii or the Grande Escursione Appenninica they are well marked, where they are "stand-alone" their state ranges from brand new fabulous trail to non-existant. </p><p>Generally speaking it is European idiocy that there are two separate long-distance trails in Italy and none is "finished" or even close to finished. Instead of joining forces the CAI and FIE are pursuing different plans just because of one fact: Only the FIE is a member of the European Ramblers' Association which organanzises the European long-distance trails. Sentiero Italia cannot be part of the European network because CAI is not a member of the head organization. </p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Sn5SMN535Q/YEyJByMMMTI/AAAAAAAAHDQ/HXVKfRMWoZ0FVDbgO_y4-4-XO2lqQD2cwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200814_073610-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Sn5SMN535Q/YEyJByMMMTI/AAAAAAAAHDQ/HXVKfRMWoZ0FVDbgO_y4-4-XO2lqQD2cwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200814_073610-01.jpeg" /></a></p><p>The Sentiero Italia has already been founded in the 90s but fallen into decay. Only since 2018 the CAI has been reviving it. But instead of now putting all the efforts into really "finishing" the Sentiero Italia the CAI <a href="https://www.lonelyplanet.com/articles/new-italy-national-parks-trail" target="_blank">has now announced</a> that it will create a new trail linking all the National Parks in the country. With limited resources I am afraid that this fact will threaten the fragil state of the Sentiero Italia again. </p><p>Generally speaking I found the E1 far less developed than the Sentiero Italia. I would not recommend the E1 because it is impossible to thruhike it in Italy! The E1 just does not exist in places and has never existed there other than on paper. One example: At one place the E1 is supposed to cross a broad fast flowing river where there is no bridge or ferry! Only the FIE knows why they routed the trail there ... To find an E1 marker in the mountains is also a rare occasion whereas the Sentiero Italia is almost 90% more or less marked - which does not mean you can hike it there. Often the trail keeper has been the last person through here - sometimes several years ago judging from the state of overgrownness ...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-osa-DXetsFM/YEyOpafy4II/AAAAAAAAHDs/lNc_t6oosScZlvOFyfkgGTmtJW-CP2HAwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200916_152130-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-osa-DXetsFM/YEyOpafy4II/AAAAAAAAHDs/lNc_t6oosScZlvOFyfkgGTmtJW-CP2HAwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200916_152130-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>That being said I want to answer the two questions I always ask myself after a long hike: Did I like this trip? Yes, absolutely! This is one of the most stunning hikes of my entire hiking career. I don't know of any other European trail that is so breathtakingly beautiful over such a long distance! For me personally Sentiero Italia is the "sexiest" trail in Europa at the moment. It has everything a thruhikers loves: Incredible scenery, plenty of adventure and a suitable length for a thruhike. It can definitely rival the long US trails, in fact with Corona restrictions and permit systems / overcrowding on the PCT and AT I would rather hike here in Italy than tackling the US trails. <div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d1GZtM1oVLc/YEyQyFwX0CI/AAAAAAAAHD0/HRlmt-BP76YGUIKP7-yQcv1T94LacwZsQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201017_102012-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d1GZtM1oVLc/YEyQyFwX0CI/AAAAAAAAHD0/HRlmt-BP76YGUIKP7-yQcv1T94LacwZsQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201017_102012-01.jpeg" /></a></div>But would I recommend it to a friend? That really depends on the friend's experience and expectations. To make it very clear: The Sentiero Italia is not for everyone! You need plenty of experience in navigation, lots of perseverance and sometimes a machete to successfully hike it. (And you will have a problem if you are afraid of dogs ...) I have hiked on wonderful old cobblestone paths - but also had the worst bushwhacks possibly. You will encounter more cows, sheep, horses and dogs than people. In fact I have not met any other thruhiker on the entire trail. There is no trail community whatsoever and your only source of information is the CAI website in Italian. Forget getting any support from them: They did not even bother to answer my emails ...<div>At least CAI is improving the trail constantly: Always check with their (very slow) Italian-only website if a section has recently been rerouted! A group of young Italian hikers have founded an organization called <a href="https://www.vasentiero.org/" target="_blank">Vasentiero</a> and they are hiking the trail each summer, also working on a digital guide - so far Italian only. But neither CAI nor Vasentiero tackle one of the biggest obstacles for a thruhiker: Water!</div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bZi3J_Pu8AU/YEyVcy8-RSI/AAAAAAAAHD8/gXjqgv8T8K43lmzPdbxq79s9fMStz5stQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200907_105216.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bZi3J_Pu8AU/YEyVcy8-RSI/AAAAAAAAHD8/gXjqgv8T8K43lmzPdbxq79s9fMStz5stQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200907_105216.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><p>The good new is that there is enough water, at least for thruhiker standards. You don't have to carry more than for one day - if you knew where the water sources are!!!! And that is the biggest problem: OSM maps don't show most of the sources and the ones that are shown can often be dry or turned off. Unfortunately neither CAI nor Vasentiero mention water sources on their website probably assuming that no one thruhikes the trail wild camping style. But even if you stayed in paid accommodation every night it would great to know where each section's water sources are. One good thing is that almost every little village has a public water fountain and on most mountain passes there is a guesthouse, mostly with accessible water taps. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SqEycufOrOY/YEyJDmiBHWI/AAAAAAAAHDU/yTFux_r2jgYmlEO9QrlcxkRFwoU09LDJACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200913_064342-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SqEycufOrOY/YEyJDmiBHWI/AAAAAAAAHDU/yTFux_r2jgYmlEO9QrlcxkRFwoU09LDJACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200913_064342-01.jpeg" /></a></div>Another good news is about wild camping: Of course, like in most European countries it is illegal in Italy, but the trail runs so remote that finding a discreet spot out of sight is dead easy! And due to the rural exodus there is hardly anyone around who could discover you anyways ... My favourite were the abandoned dry wall terraces and the platforms for coal piles left by charcoal burner decades ago. </div><div>Although there are wolves and even bears in Italy I don't think they are a threat to humans: They are too shy! Dogs can be a nuisance, but they are only protective to their herds. If you keep a distance they pose no danger. </div><div>Technically the trail poses no real difficulty either, but if you suffer from vertigo you might be reluctant to traverse some knife edge ridges. </div><div><br /></div><div>One last word: If you are more interested in culture than nature I would rather recommend the Way of St. Francis, the Sentiero Italia avoids towns and civilisation. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-31003963200275609202021-03-13T00:19:00.002+01:002021-03-13T10:33:53.867+01:00Germany to Italy: Aspromonte National Park and the end<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UdZHkb_8R1o/YEvvFP2wdvI/AAAAAAAAHC8/u4dKSLMcdYYqdbzhcy_7Yd_18YBJezWPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201101_100912-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UdZHkb_8R1o/YEvvFP2wdvI/AAAAAAAAHC8/u4dKSLMcdYYqdbzhcy_7Yd_18YBJezWPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201101_100912-01.jpeg" /></a>When I had planned this trip I had imagined Southern Italy would be a dry and barren place and I was really worried about finding enough water. This turned out to be totally wrong! The last of many National Parks along this route looked like the Black Forest, there was water everywhere (unfortunately also in form of rain) and it was foggy most of the time. On my last day I even came through a ski resort!!! It was also much colder than expected. As much as I liked my hike through Italy it was time to go home now. Only 10 hours of delight in combination with the low temperatures made that very clear.</p><p>The last 100 km were a race against time. Calabria was about the only Italian region not in look down. I had already skipped my plan to continue hiking through Sicily - I now wanted to finish in Reggion Calabria at the coast, enjoy one last rest day at the beach and then go home. It was the closest timing of any hike I have ever done.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-me5x0a3YOEI/YEvvE2gi7qI/AAAAAAAAHC4/I7TAD5qORYcE8eCFX26hrBj-f1ceR3E8wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201104_121336-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-me5x0a3YOEI/YEvvE2gi7qI/AAAAAAAAHC4/I7TAD5qORYcE8eCFX26hrBj-f1ceR3E8wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201104_121336-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>On my last full hiking day I was descending from the mountains and the fog. It was the day after the US election and I checked my smartphone several times to find out the result. I could already see the Aetna and the coast of Sicily when I read a frightening notice: Calabria was to go into hard lockdown the next day! In disbelief I called a German follower who lives in Calabria: Yes, she had heard it, too - but this is Italy! Nothing is decided yet, just hike on, was her advice. It was a fantastic last day with incredible views of the coast. When I finally reached Reggio Calabria the sun was already setting and I headed straight to my pre booked hotel. Tomorrow was my rest day and I could take the official finish photo then.<p></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GDJjqEjANv8/YEvuvBnsDsI/AAAAAAAAHCk/uIrOBahsA0sZfdZDL-XUFqXxruDzxyPPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201104_165358-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GDJjqEjANv8/YEvuvBnsDsI/AAAAAAAAHCk/uIrOBahsA0sZfdZDL-XUFqXxruDzxyPPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201104_165358-01.jpeg" /></a>This is when this follower sent me an SMS: The government is making it official - tomorrow Calabria is in lockdown. All my plans of relaxing at the beach went down the drain. I barely made it to the beach where I took some last selfies as finish photos before heading to my hotel. The owner was all upset because no one know the exact look down regulations. I was prepared to leave that very night after a shower. The owner spoke great English and was incredibly helpful: She called the police and the train station to inquire about the situation. Yes, trains were still running on regular schedule tomorrow and tourists were allowed to leave. But no celebration menu for me: All the restaurants were closed. I could not even find a laundromat to wash my clothes ...</p><p>I had to take three different trains to get from Reggio Calabria to Berlin and it took me 34 hours. Every single train was delayed, but I was incredibly happy when I crossed the border into Germany. I was already sitting in the Berlin metro when another follower sent me a message: "Hope you are back in Germany already. From tomorrow on Calabria is considered a high risk area and you must go into 10 day quarantine." But luckily I had arrived before and did not have to quarantine ... My relief and thankfulness to have finished my hike AND made it back in time was overwhelming! </p><p></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-19135835238077223732021-03-12T23:42:00.001+01:002021-03-13T10:34:43.800+01:00Germany to Italy: Cosenza to Aspromente National Park<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RpzReSM7sCs/YEvjc28c1gI/AAAAAAAAHCU/PcxUpe_FyFc2MSMQWKF9C-KNuUIxygw_gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201024_150324-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RpzReSM7sCs/YEvjc28c1gI/AAAAAAAAHCU/PcxUpe_FyFc2MSMQWKF9C-KNuUIxygw_gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201024_150324-01.jpeg" /></a></div>I had been very doubtful whether it was a good idea to continue despite rising Corona numbers, even on my way to the train station in Cosenza I made some last minute calls to friends back in Germany to discuss the topic. But like a confirmation of my decision to hike on I found all the little things in shops that had been missing: I had managed to loose all five bandanas I had bought four months ago in Ulm and here I found a new (and last one for this trip) plus a mini size tube of tooth paste. Then off I went to Sila National Park that looked a lot more like Germany than Southern Italy. It was very windy up on the mountain tops but I found a lovely sheltered campsite with 4G cell phone reception! <p></p><p>Next evening I had more problems: Right before sunset all trail markers disappeared and my GPS brought me to a river crossing in a meadow exactly when it started to rain. The cows watched me gleefully when I took off my shoes and socks to ford the river. It took me a while to find a decent spot and had to put in ear plugs because a dog was barking all night long on a nearby farm.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qLtdeRTlviI/YEvjLKMdCAI/AAAAAAAAHCE/sRCh9xX0Icgny2v-wY43_VkJ52XohqwHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201026_072806-02.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qLtdeRTlviI/YEvjLKMdCAI/AAAAAAAAHCE/sRCh9xX0Icgny2v-wY43_VkJ52XohqwHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201026_072806-02.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>I had camped close to Lago Ampollino and everything was frozen over in the morning - but what a beautiful sunrise over the lake! Sila National Park turned out to be cow heaven with huge meadows. Cows here have scary long horns but the completely ignored me. I still kept a distance when I sat down for lunch and drying my frozen over tent. <p></p><p>I hiked three days across Sila encountering free range horses and a modern sanctuary dedicated to Mary - and of course it started to rain again. I fled into a hotel where I was delighted to find out that the restaurant was closed to the public but open for guests! I had wonderful pasta, a glass of wine and a chat with the friendly owner who spoke fluent Spanish because he had worked on Mallorca before.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d9cotsVaGJc/YEvjK8R10KI/AAAAAAAAHCA/XFBh_0i8edc1AfrZ_45G_Mc79PYKunI8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201029_062815-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d9cotsVaGJc/YEvjK8R10KI/AAAAAAAAHCA/XFBh_0i8edc1AfrZ_45G_Mc79PYKunI8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201029_062815-01.jpeg" /></a></div>He even gave me all the leftovers from the breakfast buffet in the morning and an umbrella. I definitely needed the last one because it continued to rain. That day turned out to be one of the worst of the entire trip. Sentiero Italia brought me to a huge wind park where nobody had been hiking through for several years! The trail was completely overgrown, trees had fallen onto it and worst: Along a steep sandy slope it had almost completely eroded away. After climbing over dozens of blow downs and under blackberry bushes I had to realize that maybe mountain goats could safely pass this slope but definitely me. I had to turn around, but unfortunately my map told me that the only way around would involve a 30 km detour on roads ... To make things even more frustrating I could see the trail markers on the slope above me! Because the sun was already setting I needed a camp site quickly - and that could only be found on top of the ridge next to the windpark. With courage born of despair and decided to climb up through a jungle of blow downs and black berries. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-txgDtzaT2qg/YEvsTQ7mA7I/AAAAAAAAHCc/-NUxbf6BYHofPXY9TFDzzreUZa0bJsqEgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201029_090552-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-txgDtzaT2qg/YEvsTQ7mA7I/AAAAAAAAHCc/-NUxbf6BYHofPXY9TFDzzreUZa0bJsqEgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201029_090552-01.jpeg" /></a></div>I managed to get up to the ridge right before it got completely dark and even found a campsite! I was so exhausted that I fell asleep quickly despite the noisy rotors in the wind park. But this little adventure had an aftermath next morning: I took me more than an hour to operate all the spikes and thorns out of my limbs ...<div>Luckily no overgrown trail the next day, but plenty of kaki and pomegrate trees! And this sheep dogs were quite tame and only guarding their herd. </div><div>I indulged in another hotel room in San Bruno where I suddenly missed my passport in the evening. I remembered having shown it at check in, but had the owner handed it back to me or had I lost it? I was lucky: The owner had kept it overnight - in an unlocked drawer in the unlocked hotel reception ...</div><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-71838940245223286922021-03-10T22:37:00.001+01:002021-03-10T22:37:48.058+01:00Germany to Italy: Morano Calabro to Cosenza<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KSXkCCRpmU0/YEkxfVIb5CI/AAAAAAAAHBg/DnycLy9lRxESmHnoHxLABv6MONnjKZewwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201016_143255-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KSXkCCRpmU0/YEkxfVIb5CI/AAAAAAAAHBg/DnycLy9lRxESmHnoHxLABv6MONnjKZewwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201016_143255-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pollino National Park</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Despite the bad weather I still got to see a bit of Pollino National Park when I resumed my hike. The mountains mainly serve as meadows and despite the low temperatures plenty of cows and horses were still out. When I approached this meadow I could see dozens of cows peacefully grazing. Unsuspectingly I came closer - when all of sudden the sheep dogs must have woken up and ran towards me. Normally it helps to pick up a rock and threaten to throw it but alas - there was no rock whatsoever in the grass, only cow pats. And believe it or not: I picked up a dry cow pat, threw it towards the dogs - and it worked! They let me pass and kept a distance! </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ipMksmnM5vI/YEkxfMMPjqI/AAAAAAAAHBc/ISwkWFpqm8QzAW0hRazceGhQMA7UKYZwgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201020_161157-02.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1734" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ipMksmnM5vI/YEkxfMMPjqI/AAAAAAAAHBc/ISwkWFpqm8QzAW0hRazceGhQMA7UKYZwgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201020_161157-02.jpeg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Paola</td></tr></tbody></table>I hiked several more days in rainy weather before the sun came out again. The Sentiero Italia had now brought me within sight of the sea! When I discovered that the famous pilgrimage site of Paola is located only 4 kilometers away from the trail I wanted to pay it a visit. Unfortunately I had somehow overlooked that these 4 kilometers involved a 1,000 meter elevation loss that I would have to climb up again next day. Still this view of Paola and the sea was worth the effort!<p><br />Back on trail I was woken up very early in the morning by mushroom pickers! Way before sunrise they drive up into the mountains and look for "porcini". I don't think they would have bothered me but I was not keen on answering curious questions first thing in the morning.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QK7AuZhGevg/YEk5ClJYPUI/AAAAAAAAHB0/lO3xf0imQ24C1JqwquxYMqcIQKQlQVXpwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201024_101725-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QK7AuZhGevg/YEk5ClJYPUI/AAAAAAAAHB0/lO3xf0imQ24C1JqwquxYMqcIQKQlQVXpwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201024_101725-01.jpeg" /></a></p>The Sentiero follows a train line around the town of Cosenza. I was a bit surprised to see that on the map but assumed that the line was not active any more so that hikers could walk there. Luckily I checked to schedules and found out that two trains run here per hour! And to make things worse the train line passes several narrow bridges and tunnels. Walking here is basically suicide and I don't understand why the CAI put their route here! Because I did not want to kill myself I took the train and spent one night in Cosenza.<p></p><p>Cosenza is a hilltop town with very little parking. The owners of my accommodation therefore offer E-bikes for their guests. Great chance for me because I wanted to do a last shopping trip to Decathlon and Lidl, both way out of town. But this was my first time ever on an E-bike in an unknown Italian city with no bike paths and almost flat tires. I managed - but was very happy when I brought myself and the bike back in one piece. </p><p>I was having breakfast when I saw the Naples Corona riots on TV. More and more Italian regions were going into lockdown. "Don't worry, this will not happen here in Calabria", told me the owner. She was wrong in the end ...</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-35724694628485655142021-03-10T17:42:00.001+01:002021-03-13T10:35:51.362+01:00Germany to Italy: Piaggine to Morano Calabro<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ShDXZjCHDCQ/YEiMOxT6buI/AAAAAAAAHBA/j3WvqmPbEckm00EPvVVSZdU8Q5j11LSawCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201010_175705-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ShDXZjCHDCQ/YEiMOxT6buI/AAAAAAAAHBA/j3WvqmPbEckm00EPvVVSZdU8Q5j11LSawCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201010_175705-01.jpeg" /></a>Next stop for me was the town of Lagonegro where a new pair of shoes was waiting for me in the post office. Post offices are not an efficient affair in Germany but Italy in Corona times was ten times worse. I had to wait half an hour and fill out a form just to collect my package. But I also had the best pasta in a local ristorante for just 4 Euro before hitting the trail again.</p><p>I was now only on the Sentiero Italia, the E1 officially ends here - and inofficially it never existed before. I had trouble again finding a campsite because there were only endless meadows, even without cattle it is difficult to camp in the open due to condensation which got really bad now in fall. I had to search way into darkness to find a spot under a lone tree. </p><p>In Latronico I saw a whole holiday apartment for just 23 Euro and could not resist. And the Pizza Particolare with pumpkin cream and smoked cheese in the local pizza parlor was a real culinary delight!</p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AlNZazVx2EY/YEiMPaNObOI/AAAAAAAAHBI/bNdySHug4sIOzkNOf59dq4qqeQOV9Xc5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201011_070306-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AlNZazVx2EY/YEiMPaNObOI/AAAAAAAAHBI/bNdySHug4sIOzkNOf59dq4qqeQOV9Xc5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201011_070306-01.jpeg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My campsite on the meadow</td></tr></tbody></table>Despite the bad weather I had to press on into Pollino National Park. By now I was really worried about the rest of my trip. It was getting colder and colder and more and more Italian regions went into lockdown. Calabria in the South did have very few cases though. <p></p><p>Pollino National Park is supposed to be a real gem but I did not see much of it due to rain and fog. When I arrived at the sanctuary Madonna di Pollina it was just pouring down. I sought shelter underneath a little roof because everything was closed - even the toilets. Temperature was just 6 degrees and I didn't really like the idea to hike on but had no choice. First there was a steep descent, then the trail was not there were it was supposed to be according to me track. CAI had rerouted this section and luckily the trail marking was great. Back on track I had another endless ascent up the pass. I was soaking wet from outside and inside. I was really surprised that there was no snow up on the pass, the wind was icy!</p><p><br /></p><div><div style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6EBDNTtVTA/YEjzg_W2CRI/AAAAAAAAHBU/_OiyTZyhWdMNFC2ltruQ5L1ftTOYSsP8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201014_155032-01.jpeg" /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p></div><div>I was so happy to find the descending trail and be back in forest. Because I didn't want to cool off I even had to skip lunch!</div><div><br /></div>I had to descend 1,000 metres and then walk more endless kilometers until finally reaching Morana Calabro where I had booked myself into a hotel. Roberto, the hotel owner was great: He called ahead for me to find out which restaurant was open now in low season. I even met a German couple there and had the first chat in my mother tongue for a long time. <div>Roberto even drove me to laundromat in the next town so that I could wash my clothes. He had hiked the Camino in Spain and said: "We hikers must stick together!" I was the only hotel guest now in off season. And because I had not much seen of the National Park due to bad weather he even sent me a book about it to Germany!</div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-58963361301043168372021-03-10T03:17:00.001+01:002021-03-10T03:17:14.192+01:00Germany to Italy: Naples to Piaggine<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F94aISpxep4/YEgiDLkEBJI/AAAAAAAAHAY/GGfDQ_Po4MQEWL8wntAifzWHm68AKesZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_075739-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F94aISpxep4/YEgiDLkEBJI/AAAAAAAAHAY/GGfDQ_Po4MQEWL8wntAifzWHm68AKesZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_075739-01.jpeg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Montesarchio</td></tr></tbody></table>Because the weather did not improve but I was fed up with Naples and its trash problem I want back to Telese Terme where I had left the trail. As the name Terme suggests it is a spa town and I saw myself soaking in thermal baths again. Alas, everything was closed and I was stuck another day in a boring little town with not much to do but go shopping in the only supermarket. </p><p>Things improved after that and even the sun came back. Two days later I was rewarded with this wonderful view of Montesarchio. When descending from the mountains on a great trail I came across the Grotta di San Simeone, a cave in the middle of nowhere that was decorated with a 16th century painting of the saint. There is a fence now to prevent vandalism but during WW II this had been a hiding place for the locals. </p><p>There is a long road walk across the valley but I found a wonderful "tavola calda" in Montesarchio where I could fortify myself for it.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8or2rSOiEZM/YEgkIBGmX-I/AAAAAAAAHAw/hlAyloH9_eAxq-_c5WKWAqlwBW6cLDwAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201001_115122-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8or2rSOiEZM/YEgkIBGmX-I/AAAAAAAAHAw/hlAyloH9_eAxq-_c5WKWAqlwBW6cLDwAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201001_115122-01.jpeg" /></a></div>I nearly missed the Santuario di Montevergine because it was so foggy and the building was so modern (and ugly) that I did not suspect it to be a monastery. But then a nun appeared out of the fog and told me about the place. 1,5 million pilgrims visit it every year - almost all of them by car despite this wonderful old trail!<p></p><p>I had big trouble finding a campsite that night: There were plenty of wonderful terraces more than suitable for camping but for whatever reason there were alarm shots every five minutes to scare the birds away! No way I would be able to sleep here. I had to hike far into the night to find a place out of earshot!</p><p>In the Regional Park Monti Picentini the Sentiero Italia follows the Fiume Sabato but the trail along its banks was completely eroded. No problem, I walked in the riverbed instead. But the amount of trash there was shocking. Between dozens of plastic sandals, shampoo bottles and bags I even found a computer keyboard. Not only had the river washed up all that trash, locals were also illegally dumping it into the park ...</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rnmZ5CaHv-8/YEgiCyiDKNI/AAAAAAAAHAQ/OFjUKn2en00Y3pthDXPu0N6EzP0zzQZsgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201003_173036-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rnmZ5CaHv-8/YEgiCyiDKNI/AAAAAAAAHAQ/OFjUKn2en00Y3pthDXPu0N6EzP0zzQZsgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201003_173036-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monte Polveraccio</td></tr></tbody></table><p>I was now in an area where chestnuts are cultivated. This would be great places for camping but now in October farmers were harvesting them. A 1,100 meter straight ascent brought me up to Monte Polveraccio where it was so windy that I had problems taking pictures. I wonder how the Station of the Cross survived up here so exposed to the elements. Luckily I found a sheltered campsite on the descent. When I planned the next section I briefly considered taking the E1 again and realized just in time that it crossed the river Sele at a place where there is neither a bridge nor a ferry. No wonder nobody hikes the E1.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vg2M3uPBWy0/YEgiEIrFgrI/AAAAAAAAHAc/1sDJbCBruKYxCAevTkX4bjsqkHeTRYA4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201006_113536-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vg2M3uPBWy0/YEgiEIrFgrI/AAAAAAAAHAc/1sDJbCBruKYxCAevTkX4bjsqkHeTRYA4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201006_113536-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monte Panormo</td></tr></tbody></table>I stayed on the Sentiero Italia with lots of road walking and could not resist the temptation in Contursi Terme to get a hotel with a swimming pool! So much luxury for only 43 Euros - although the pool was not heated and pretty cold for my morning swim. <p></p><p>The Sentiero goes up Monte Panormo on a wonderfully maintained old foot path. I slept under chestnut trees and discovered that there casks are quite spikey. The view from Monte Panorma was downright breathtaking but I started to worry how I would get down from this knife edge. It turned out not too difficult but I I was still happy to touch firm ground again.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SwZqGgBIQJ0/YEgq4giZYyI/AAAAAAAAHA4/LfAd1Dphsq0PgbJBzGgYsr4oBRsw6EqmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201007_071659-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SwZqGgBIQJ0/YEgq4giZYyI/AAAAAAAAHA4/LfAd1Dphsq0PgbJBzGgYsr4oBRsw6EqmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201007_071659-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>That night I learnt that cows and horses don't sleep at night. Their bells kept me awake until the wee hours and several times they came very close visiting me. I had booked myself in a B&B at Piaggine but check in nearly failed because there was no cell phone reception in town and I had to call the owner (who did not speak English either). In the end all worked out and I was even able to buy some food in the local minimarket before the deluge started. All the restaurants in town were closed and I had to dine in my room with a tetrapack of red wine. <p> </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-24099964041069492002021-03-10T02:28:00.005+01:002021-03-13T10:36:28.994+01:00Germany to Italy: Sora to Naples<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p0X7AZu0UuY/YEgbmfju9tI/AAAAAAAAG_8/NJjP69V3m8ErMLFiONgaYlG3VB9EBkQ8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200918_150806-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p0X7AZu0UuY/YEgbmfju9tI/AAAAAAAAG_8/NJjP69V3m8ErMLFiONgaYlG3VB9EBkQ8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200918_150806-01.jpeg" /></a>I took the train from Sora to Montecassino because there are three attractions: the famous monastery high on top of the mountain (I took a bus to get up there ...), several WW II cemeteries and an old Roman amphitheater. I visited all three. But my highlight in town was an AYCE sushi place were I was feasting among hoards of school kids on the cheap lunch special.</p><p>I left town much later than planned because it was much more difficult to send my summer gear home. DHL was outrageously expensive and I had to queue at the post office to get a cheaper rate. Although Italy is in the EU I still had to fill out a long customs form for whatever reason. And then the train back to trail was full of screaming teenagers ... I was already exhausted when I was back on trail!</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lSTV1dBMRec/YEgbl7_rjKI/AAAAAAAAG_0/FPYT8je04foWTKs2HekTb3WGdGLddgIiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200923_135921-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lSTV1dBMRec/YEgbl7_rjKI/AAAAAAAAG_0/FPYT8je04foWTKs2HekTb3WGdGLddgIiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200923_135921-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lago di Matese</td></tr></tbody></table><p>A last experiment on the E1 ended in scratches on legs and arms. I decided to follow the Sentiero Italia from now on - unfortunately in the rain. I sought refuge in an abandoned house which looked like the film set of a horror movie, even a bat came flying by. When I reached Lago di Matese I felt more like in Scotland than Italy. I was just having lunch in a playground when it started to bucket down again and I ended up waiting out the shower under a slide watching videos on my smartphone ... The weather forecast was a nightmare and I decided to wait out three days in nearby Naples where there are enough sites to keep my busy for several days.</p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wg6cFWHEuOw/YEgbm5h9-8I/AAAAAAAAHAA/LBWipUKg5ysH7r0WMbfhxfBxngd4Ll7aQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200927_152436-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wg6cFWHEuOw/YEgbm5h9-8I/AAAAAAAAHAA/LBWipUKg5ysH7r0WMbfhxfBxngd4Ll7aQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200927_152436-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Naples</td></tr></tbody></table>I ended up staying four days in Naples. It had been an excellent decision to get off trail because it was bucketing down so much that even the metro had to be closed due to flooding ...<p></p><p>And what a coincidence: A German friend of mine was just visiting Naples so that we could have a reunion in Italy! But as much as I liked sightseeing in town I was itching to get back on trail. It was getting colder and colder and Corono numbers were rising in Italy. I started to worry if I was able to finish this hike as planned ...</p><p></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-44156179210434877732021-03-09T23:32:00.004+01:002021-03-09T23:32:36.867+01:00Germany to Italy: L'Aquila to Sora<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UXECDzXN5fE/YEftxyGDxfI/AAAAAAAAG_E/CM16ocLoIUwezkJufwVvdDO_FAK_nowxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200911_152348-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UXECDzXN5fE/YEftxyGDxfI/AAAAAAAAG_E/CM16ocLoIUwezkJufwVvdDO_FAK_nowxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200911_152348-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a>I took the "antique" train back to Antrodoco where the trail soon took me to a private property with "No entry"-signs - and several aggressively barking dogs. Right behind the fence was another trail marker so I was quite sure this is were I was supposed to go. Unfortunately the dogs thought otherwise. I used the old trick of picking up a rock which kind of worked here as well. The dogs kept a distance while I sneaked across grazing cows and climbed up the mountains. The dogs were too lazy to follow me uphill. The photo shows the view back down to the farm property that I had just crossed. </p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7JcfdV0wNiY/YEfvgn-M-FI/AAAAAAAAG_Q/zKnGwwSUrfIarC-8QigOWv5LuW9wklPSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200912_185815-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7JcfdV0wNiY/YEfvgn-M-FI/AAAAAAAAG_Q/zKnGwwSUrfIarC-8QigOWv5LuW9wklPSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200912_185815-01.jpeg" /></a></div>These lovely two lakes are actually reservoirs and I had spent an entire day walking around them on a very steep slope with partly overgrown trail. The view compensated for a lot of effort. I filled up with water at dusk in this village which meant that I had to walk until sunset where I camped at a fenced in picnic area. I was even protected from the cows which never showed up ... <div>I was now only 50 kilometers away from Rome as the crow flies but felt like in a completely different world. I did not even do a day trip or rest day in Rome in order not get out of the hiking flow! </div><div>I was now on the Sentiero Italia in the Monti Simbruni. I even walked through an abandoned ski resort which I would have never expected so close to Rome!</div><div>When I passed a commercial camp ground I was so thirsty that I asked for water. The receptionist told me there was no tap water (which I found hard to believe in a campground) but gave me bottled water. I wanted to pay for it but she refused. I still don't know whether the water here was potable or not.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0scjSipkO0/YEfvgk2m2NI/AAAAAAAAG_M/PExFIcg2XQQ-inYvtwCjBowtfco8cN13wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200915_090319-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0scjSipkO0/YEfvgk2m2NI/AAAAAAAAG_M/PExFIcg2XQQ-inYvtwCjBowtfco8cN13wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200915_090319-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>Next highlight was the Santurio della Santissima Trinita starring a very rare old depiction of the Holy Trinity as three identical persons. The old chapel is perched into a sheer cliff and looks totally unaccessible but a narrow path led me down there. Modern pilgrims come by car but even they have to walk 20 minutes from the nearest parking lot. </div><div>Because the old chapel is way too small for the masses of pilgrims mass is held open air on a terrace with a breathtaking view over the valley. There were dozens of souvenir stalls selling everything from baby bibs to rosaries. I was all alone again on the wonderful old hiking trail descending down into the village.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mO49i1_vDzo/YEfzATJl9iI/AAAAAAAAG_g/CR8wj_QpLUccoz1xAIsAhkRNYvfDXa3kwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200916_144535-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mO49i1_vDzo/YEfzATJl9iI/AAAAAAAAG_g/CR8wj_QpLUccoz1xAIsAhkRNYvfDXa3kwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200916_144535-01.jpeg" /></a></div>As you can see on the photo the Monti Simbruini are truly spectacular - but there is very little water. Before ascending I had made the mistake to try to follow the E1 again ending up in an impossible bushwhack. I detoured back to the Sentiero Italia taking too little water and had to hike the whole day with only one liter - big mistake! When I had finally descended again and reached the first water fountain I guzzled down two liters!<div>Next to the fountain I met a French cyclist I had already seen in the morning. It is always nice to meet fellow travellers but she was not the smartest one. When I police car showed up she asked them were to camp. The answer: "Definitely not here! Go down at least 10 km, because the next village there is out of our jurisdiction." </div><div>Unfortunately I made the mistake not to camp here either - not because of the police, I just wanted to get some more miles in. Therefore I walked down the road at sunset getting this fantastic view of the monastery which is not inhabited any more. </div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C0kJUyq82xY/YEfy_6VLahI/AAAAAAAAG_c/VnRG0M3cdawYSgYrVSIiTJmm2X1r2iyHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200916_185052-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C0kJUyq82xY/YEfy_6VLahI/AAAAAAAAG_c/VnRG0M3cdawYSgYrVSIiTJmm2X1r2iyHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200916_185052-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div>Alas, no camp site could be found. Where I had intended to camp there were too many houses. I even had to backtrack on the road in the dark and was followed by a car. I was pretty scared, turned off my headlamp and disappeared into a trail that shortcut the road switchbacks. But instead of driving on the car stopped and the driver got out. I listened intently in the darkness and suddenly something came rolling down the hill. The motor started and the car dashed off. Several trash bags rolled in front of my feet. This had not been a stalker but some person illegally dumping trash. Luckily I had not camped here ... I eventually found a decent campsite though where it was impossible to dump trash on me. </div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4CdcZiuC-60/YEf15_lI7sI/AAAAAAAAG_s/ZI1UOAsJhZkFIb1Ox81KKn6Fc27kjk0kwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200917_144534-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4CdcZiuC-60/YEf15_lI7sI/AAAAAAAAG_s/ZI1UOAsJhZkFIb1Ox81KKn6Fc27kjk0kwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200917_144534-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>As you can see in the photo a big thunderstorm was threatening. I decided to stay low and road walked to the train station in Sora. As much as I dislike road walking here it gave me the chance to constantly snack on apple, pear and fig trees plus grapes! In case you were wondering: I didn't have to steal the fruit, there are a lot of abandoned orchards where you can help yourself.<br /><div>Nights were getting colder now in September and I had had my warm winter equipment sent to me in Montecassino, my next rest stop. <br /><div><br /></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-24443602923243884272021-03-09T21:46:00.004+01:002021-03-09T21:59:01.371+01:00Germany to Italy: Norcia to L'Aquila<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lRbq0SzcRDc/YEfTNUg0ArI/AAAAAAAAG90/WDGv-VEh5uEQUvtTy5TZ6PVRW1ZFDdB_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200907_124359.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lRbq0SzcRDc/YEfTNUg0ArI/AAAAAAAAG90/WDGv-VEh5uEQUvtTy5TZ6PVRW1ZFDdB_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200907_124359.jpg" width="320" /></a> Back in the Monti Sibilini I was overwhelmed by the vastness of the landscape. It all looked very serene - but when I reached a road and the rifugio there, it had been destroyed by the earthquake. The hut warden was now serving food in a container nearby. </p><p></p><p>Camping that evening I hid in a forest well out of sight of the nearby farm. Nevertheless at dusk I heard people's voices nearby and two dogs sniffing out my tent - luckily not barking. When the voices came closer I finally summoned up my courage and looked out of my tent: A couple was standing just five meters away discussing something in English - not having discovered me yet.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-01i0VjFlVA8/YEfUjjzQjAI/AAAAAAAAG-E/4loXTqPImGovDR_LslxD2U3_UZannaRDQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200908_091018.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-01i0VjFlVA8/YEfUjjzQjAI/AAAAAAAAG-E/4loXTqPImGovDR_LslxD2U3_UZannaRDQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200908_091018.jpg" /></a></div>All of a sudden the conversation stopped and the lady said: "I think there is a tent!" I immediately introduced myself and offered to leave - but no problem. The couple turned out to be from the Netherlands. They were about to buy the property and were now exploring all the nooks and crannies before signing the contract. "You can stay here as long as you want - and we won't tell the owner", they told me when leaving. Later that night I was only disturbed by a wild pig.<div>The next village, Accumoli, had been completely destroyed by the earthquake, people were still living in containers, even the village church was a container now. Next to the altar was a crucifix with a sign "our Golgatha" where rock pieces were exhibited: They were pieces from the destroyed village churches in the region, a very touching memorabilia.</div><div><br /></div><div>When I tried to shortcut some kilometers I ended up on a road that had been destroyed as well - but unfortunately now there were two big constructions sites with several "No entry"-signs and lots of workers. Although I felt pretty bad walking right through it nobody said a word. On the contrary some workers chatted with me about my hike!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AmxB7-f2sOY/YEfYJ1Qu3-I/AAAAAAAAG-Q/9UHafZVYUXIP6COyYwFSnGhWay_dJa4AgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200909_113039.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AmxB7-f2sOY/YEfYJ1Qu3-I/AAAAAAAAG-Q/9UHafZVYUXIP6COyYwFSnGhWay_dJa4AgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200909_113039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I tried to follow the E1 but ended up in an unpenetrable jungle of blackberries - the last hiker must have come through here years ago! I had no choice but to road walk around it. What really worried me was the fact that I would have to go through a very long tunnel, a potentially dangerous situation for me as a hiker. But to my great surprise the old road existed still next to the tunnel and was actually the new E1 route! But my luck did not last long: The E1 led me to another bushwhack were I cut my leg so badly that blood was running down my calf! The other choice was roadwalking again on a busy narrow road that sent me jumping into the ditch whenever a truck approached.<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m-n_Rv1hqY8/YEfYJVK4jkI/AAAAAAAAG-M/wWZXBi_9QNg-h_UoJiAW_C3IndQVLrstwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200909_124012.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m-n_Rv1hqY8/YEfYJVK4jkI/AAAAAAAAG-M/wWZXBi_9QNg-h_UoJiAW_C3IndQVLrstwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200909_124012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>I realized that the E1 is definitely a work in progress and its route not reliable! I still made it to Antrodoco in one piece where I took the train to L'Aquila where I had booked a room in a monastery. Although the earthquake there had taken place more than ten (!) years ago the city centre has still not been rebuilt. What a shame for the Italian government. I had to take the bus to some suburban shopping centre to do all my shopping. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><br /></div><p></p></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-62440843896673486992021-03-09T16:31:00.004+01:002021-03-13T10:37:18.359+01:00Germany to Italy: Faenza to Norcia<p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gWBvoqZdSTM/YEeCnJjFBAI/AAAAAAAAG8s/ODid7pVlSZ0zKXwlSOt1hschO--TCiJtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200824_101552-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gWBvoqZdSTM/YEeCnJjFBAI/AAAAAAAAG8s/ODid7pVlSZ0zKXwlSOt1hschO--TCiJtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200824_101552-01.jpeg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dry water trough</td></tr></tbody></table>The bus ride back to the trail was like a roller coaster. The driver even had to back up several hundred meters because the road was so narrow and oncoming traffic could not pass. Although it was a lot cooler and breezier up in the mountains than in town water became an issue. The next I hiked a 2 kilometer detour to reach a water trough only to find it bone dry. With my tongue hanging out I barely made it to the next pass where a ristorante provided a water tap in the garden. It was meant for dogs but worked for hikers as well. I downed one liter in 30 seconds ...<p></p><p>But it got a lot cooler and very foggy the next night. I was now hiking in Foresti Cansentinesi, high up on the ridge and all of a sudden I felt more like German Black Forest in fall than Italy in summer. I had been in this area just months before on the Way of St. Francis so this time I hiked a slightly different route. Badia Prataglia, which had been deserted in February, was now bustling with tourists. </p><p><br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qaKUQH3Iap4/YEeFoduEMQI/AAAAAAAAG88/-1Hb-2nx7QU6ERAOPOGppya2673cQg1cQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200825_080056-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qaKUQH3Iap4/YEeFoduEMQI/AAAAAAAAG88/-1Hb-2nx7QU6ERAOPOGppya2673cQg1cQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200825_080056-01.jpeg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foresti Casentinesi</td></tr></tbody></table><div>When I checked my maps during lunch break in the main plaza I discovered a spa town close to my route: Bagno Romana! When I could even score I cheap hotel room in town I decided that spending the evening in hot thermal water is a great idea! </div><div>Other than in Germany Italian spas usually belong to a hotel or resort and are relatively small. Not all admit non-hotel guests, but in Bagno Romagna there were even three! It was wonderful to soak in the warm water and stroll through town in the evening. </div><div>Next evening I camped above a forest road well hidden in the trees, but was woken up by loud snorting. Was a cow or a horse visiting me? When I peeked out of my tent I nearly bursted out laughing: A rather overweight jogger was passing my campsite on the forest road. </div><div>I was now on the E1 that is paralleling a variant of the Way of St. Francis. I did not see many other hikers, but half a dozen of lost socks - no kidding. People strap them onto their backpack for drying and then loose them. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sp6EwJQtGFU/YEeJSTjp7wI/AAAAAAAAG9E/iIUHWJ5okE8cWUPyMsMAdo6yOF93LApCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200827_201806-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sp6EwJQtGFU/YEeJSTjp7wI/AAAAAAAAG9E/iIUHWJ5okE8cWUPyMsMAdo6yOF93LApCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200827_201806-01.jpeg" /></a></div>Two days later the forecast was so bad that I decided on a huge detour to Pietralunga, which I had already visited on the Way of St. Francis. All other accommodation was fully booked and even the place in Pietralunga was more expensive than I wanted. It turned out to be worth it! Because the town is on the Way of St. Francis I met a German pilgrim in the hotel and we had dinner together. Check out time was 11 am next morning but when having breakfast and watching the rain outside the hotel owner told me that due to a cancellation I could stay in my room until the afternoon. He even brought me pasta for lunch from his own family meal! It was still drizzling when I left in the early evening. <div>When I hiked back to the E1/Sentiero Italia on back roads and forest roads I got water from an outside tap near a house. Unfortunately a kitten took a liking in me and followed me playfully chasing flies and mosquitoes. I was worried if this tiny creature would find his way back home alone - and walked all the way back with it. I knocked on the door where it had started following me. I don't know what the owners thought of me but they took the kitten in again. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8tHoZTeTYo/YEeL_rc5eCI/AAAAAAAAG9M/W86COsFr1Owzqbm269Tb6-sgsEL0vPw3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200831_103630-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8tHoZTeTYo/YEeL_rc5eCI/AAAAAAAAG9M/W86COsFr1Owzqbm269Tb6-sgsEL0vPw3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200831_103630-01.jpeg" /></a></div>It rained so hard the next day that my fingers were pruned just from holding my trekking poles! I found a great shelter next to a lonely church during lunch where I could even charge my phone but after that all luck left me. Because the weather was so miserable I wanted to book a hotel in Scheggia - but all my email inquiries were answered negative: everything was fully booked! To make things worse the sun was already going down and the route traversed a steep slope where finding a campsite was impossible. The more I climbed the scenery looked rather like Scotland than Italy in the fog. The full moon made it even eerier! When I discovered a shelter on the map a couple of kilometers away I deceided to give it a try. Very close to the shelter I checked my GPS - when I felt something cold and wet touching my legs from behind. I turned around and screamed like hell when I saw a huge white dog!<div>All of sudden a light went on nearby and I realized what had happened: This was not the Hound of Baskerville, but a sheepdog and the shelter was not a public rifugio but the shepherd's hut.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CElt1c67EBY/YEeOrgTspqI/AAAAAAAAG9Y/K5zsQZLwbIQO_isJToJRnFXp5aQWgBwXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200901_160213-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CElt1c67EBY/YEeOrgTspqI/AAAAAAAAG9Y/K5zsQZLwbIQO_isJToJRnFXp5aQWgBwXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200901_160213-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>He came out of his hut wondering what the heck a hysterical German got to do here in the middle of the night. Of course he only spoke Italian but I understood as much that he offered me a place on the floor of his hut - between lots of empty wine bottles. When I politely declined and wanted to hike on, he insisted: "Lupi, lupi - wolves, wolves".<div>But other than chain smoking shepherds wolves don't snore, so I continued and pitched my tent a couple of hundred meters away. As soon as I had retired into my sleeping bag a car passed by at midnight! I don't know whether the driver even saw me or just couldn't be bothered to stops. After that no more visitors or wolves ...</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VTIOLJpE-dI/YEeOrY5I1oI/AAAAAAAAG9U/qkAZ5vlHnW4ySVkdENhfkJLY7TAdTLfzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200902_120708-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VTIOLJpE-dI/YEeOrY5I1oI/AAAAAAAAG9U/qkAZ5vlHnW4ySVkdENhfkJLY7TAdTLfzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200902_120708-01.jpeg" /></a></div><div>It took me a while to dry everything out next morning and unfortunately my couscous bag had leaked. I ate a bit that day but had to throw away most of it later because it started moulding ...</div><div>After more water problems next highlight was the Eremo Serra Santa which offers an panoramic view over the valley. The little church is closed but the entrance area is now officially a trail shelter complete with a wood stove and benches. I just cooked my dinner inside here on my camp stove out of the wind.</div><div>I was now hiking in the Monti Sibilini which are bald mountains with lots of free range cows and horses - and surprisingly many working water troughs. But this time I was lacking something else: My powerbank was almost empty! I had just finished lunch when two mountain bikers approached and asked me in broken Italian about the E1. They turned out to be from Germany and offered me their own powerbank to recharge my phone while they were taking a break. I hiked on and returned their powerbank to them when they passed me an hour later. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0hbrzlYB-gY/YEeR-bXipjI/AAAAAAAAG9k/8d3OCq8MYp0pBVb8ebx-CkDP1rZhOqx4QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200907_123740-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0hbrzlYB-gY/YEeR-bXipjI/AAAAAAAAG9k/8d3OCq8MYp0pBVb8ebx-CkDP1rZhOqx4QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200907_123740-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>Visso was the first town on my route that had been destroyed by earthquakes four years ago. It still looked like one big construction site. The entire old town was fenced off as a danger zone. </div><div>When I continued the next day to Norcia I used old gpx tracks which led me right through villages that were completely abandoned. In some places I had to crawl over rubble and could still see the broken furniture. The most touching scene was a house were the front had collapsed and I could look directly into the former bedroom: The bed was still intact and looked like the inhabitants had just left for the day ....</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o8qaYlJSvfE/YEeTG6_KLdI/AAAAAAAAG9s/86nGvdYcX0srwWJVX_xHVgmdqDX7hb-FwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1605/IMG_20200905_091745-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1605" data-original-width="1605" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o8qaYlJSvfE/YEeTG6_KLdI/AAAAAAAAG9s/86nGvdYcX0srwWJVX_xHVgmdqDX7hb-FwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200905_091745-01.jpeg" /></a></div>I think the CAI has changed the route of the trail by now but it was very touching to hike through these ghost towns ... Sometimes I was a bit worried that a ruin could collapse on me, some houses were just held upright by makeshift wooden planks!</div><div><br /></div><div>In Norcia I was the only passenger on the bus to Spoleto where I had booked myself into an old monastery. I had been here in February but had not done much sightseeing. </div><div>Spoleto is a very tourist-friendly town: Because it is built on a steep hillside there are escalators taking you up and down - for free!!! Only two nearos here ...</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-22909136667916630522021-03-08T21:42:00.003+01:002021-03-13T10:38:12.881+01:00Germany to Italy: Pistoia to Faenza<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TnrlAE5dyQI/YEZ_cP8NSzI/AAAAAAAAG8U/tqaFMzWPv5kIK7GNR7Qny4WkrAS4M4AXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200818_135325.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TnrlAE5dyQI/YEZ_cP8NSzI/AAAAAAAAG8U/tqaFMzWPv5kIK7GNR7Qny4WkrAS4M4AXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200818_135325.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Luckily I had arrived very early at the bus station because due to Corona only 50% of the seats were supposed to be occupied - but there were a lot more passengers waiting. But after long discussions Italian style everyone got on board. It took 1,5 hours to cover 30 km as the crow flies and I felt horribly seasick after plenty of taking over manouvers on the narrow and winding road. It started to rain as soon as I got of the bus and with thunderstorms lurking I took a lower alternate route. Good choice because the next day all summits were covered in thick fog.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vB5dilonOA8/YEaDavWX1vI/AAAAAAAAG8g/iAfdeN10eB4aoLk3Vl7ARgeFLlDXDMW2QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200820_102749.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vB5dilonOA8/YEaDavWX1vI/AAAAAAAAG8g/iAfdeN10eB4aoLk3Vl7ARgeFLlDXDMW2QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200820_102749.jpg" /></a></div>I learnt a new Italian word: "frana" which means landslide. I had to do an iffy detour to get around one but could rejoin my route via old abandonded roads that let me progress quickly. I am now on the Grande Escursione Appenninica which felt a bit like the AT: a long green tunnel! (with little water!)<div>I was lucky to reach a refuge where I could get water out of a cistern and a lovely chat with the hut warden who told me about this crazy Corona year: first no tourists and then too many!</div><div>On Passo de la Futa the popular Via degli Dei joined the GEA for a couple of kilometers and I was amazed how many hikers were out there! </div><div>There even was a hiker box! Beside lots of band-aids and Ibuprofen I could score some snacks. There were so many noisy hikers piling up at the only spring that I fled from all the noise. But as soon as the Via degli Dei took another turn, I was all alone on the GEA again.</div><div><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x3jhGF6dGvA/YEaDaZCTghI/AAAAAAAAG8c/ViV-zoq2Fgggulra0auo-PJZ4DxxwK5wwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200821_074957.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x3jhGF6dGvA/YEaDaZCTghI/AAAAAAAAG8c/ViV-zoq2Fgggulra0auo-PJZ4DxxwK5wwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200821_074957.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">War cemetery </td></tr></tbody></table></div><div>Passo de la Futa is the location of Italy's biggest war cemetery. More than 30,000 German soldiers are buried here. Often they could be identified. When I wandered through the endless rows of graves reading the simple name plates of wondered what fates were behind it. <br /><p>I took the train to Faenza, ceramics capital of Italy where new shoes were waiting for me. I had ordered them from Amazon, and in Italy you can have them delivered to one of their partner stores, in my case a newspaper agent. </p><p>Although I had a lovely AirBnB where I could even use the washing machine there was no AC or even a fan in my room. It was so unbearably hot that sleeping was difficult. But around the corner was a great pizza place next to an ice cream parlor - perfect combination! And of course I visited the huge ceramic museum in town. <br /></p><p></p></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-22990181587106022312021-03-08T18:14:00.002+01:002021-03-08T18:14:14.191+01:00Germany to Italy: Genoa to Pistoia<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--X9Ltp6xQNs/YEZJyDVqCRI/AAAAAAAAG7Y/cX0UZMS5UaopI52tye4BAMPtOgRTCPW6ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200809_132104-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--X9Ltp6xQNs/YEZJyDVqCRI/AAAAAAAAG7Y/cX0UZMS5UaopI52tye4BAMPtOgRTCPW6ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200809_132104-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>I took the narrow gauge train back to the mountains with eight days of food in my backpack. I quickly realized that I would not be able to make 30+ km in terrain like this: constant ups and downs plus my heavy backpack were a big problem. Also water was far scarce - good campsites as well. <p></p><p>When I turned around a corner in a area full of meadows, out of the blue I was attacked by six huge white dogs, so-called Maremmanos. They were protecting a herd of goats. As long as I kept a distance they left me alone. I had no choice but to wait until their herd had moved -which took a long time. Apparantly the grass here was especially juicy. Two kilometers later a sign said that the trail is closed due to free roaming sheep dogs ... There had been no sign on the other side where I was coming from.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bygdm-RUjQA/YEZJxeOQQ5I/AAAAAAAAG7Q/wHGg2OgPhYch2gl6bBhSCw__4izkj3H3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200811_063748-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bygdm-RUjQA/YEZJxeOQQ5I/AAAAAAAAG7Q/wHGg2OgPhYch2gl6bBhSCw__4izkj3H3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200811_063748-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>At the next mountain pass I bought an ice cream at the bar to calm my nerves after this exciting encounter. Rather unexpectedly for me these bars sold snacks and ice cream and usually have a water tap as well making life a lot easier for me. At Passo Due Santi there was a mountain hotel and this being a Sunday plenty of people were checking out. As my powerbank was running low I went the other way and sat down in the hotel lobby to charge my phone. Nobody bothered me. At Passo de la Cissa my route crossed the pilgrimage trail Via Francigena and for a couple of kilometers there were plenty of hikers. <p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HZZoZXNZQGs/YEZJxzPXenI/AAAAAAAAG7U/TyhDJ3EqxIsjIZQz4Izc-DGFap2i8-15QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200814_075803-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HZZoZXNZQGs/YEZJxzPXenI/AAAAAAAAG7U/TyhDJ3EqxIsjIZQz4Izc-DGFap2i8-15QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200814_075803-01.jpeg" /></a></div>But when the pilgrimage trail left, so did the water! All water sources on my map were dry or non existant! When the last spring before a long ridgewalk was dry because farmers had diverted the water into plastic tubes to feed the troughs on their meadows I had no choice but to descend several hundred meters, get water and then climb up again. And then all I could find was a camp spot on lumpy grass. At least I was rewarded with a golden sunrise next morning. <p></p><p>In the Appenin National Park the route follows the narrow ridge and requires some climbing at places. Nothing too difficult but suffering from a bit of vertigo I had a hard time. And then two horses grazing on top of the ridge did not move an inch when I approached. Pushing, yelling, caressing - nothing worked. I could only sneak past them when some day hikers approached from the other side. Because I was much slower than expected I was very low on food and happy to get a two course lunch at Rifugio Prato di Spilla where busloads of tourists were out and about.</p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-coeHKZ_JCA0/YEZJywLfGVI/AAAAAAAAG7c/yM2tEuUlHxoN4gpmWmMpC4LZFSC6zvIuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200814_081056-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-coeHKZ_JCA0/YEZJywLfGVI/AAAAAAAAG7c/yM2tEuUlHxoN4gpmWmMpC4LZFSC6zvIuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200814_081056-01.jpeg" /></a></p><p>I was surprised to see so many day hikers in some places until I realized that there ski lifts were working! When I descended into Abetone literally dozens of gasping hikers were climbing up the steep hill and every other one asked me: "Is it still far?"</p><p>I had hiked the entire day on a last package of peanuts and had no food whatsoever left when I reached Abetone. There were only two small mini markets but I was happy to eat whatever they offered. But first I checked bus schedules because I was going to Pistoia for two rest days. I patiently waited half an hour for the bus to arrive and was then told that I could not buy a ticket from the driver! But he had mercy on me and waited till I had bought one from a souvenir shop across the street. Important lesson for travellers in Italy: Tickets can not be obtained from the driver, you have to buy them in tobacco shops or even bars! I was lucky again with my accommodation in Pistoia: I could relax in fantastic kind of boutique hotel right in the city centre. The owner even spoke English and gave me plenty of travel advice. And the ice cream parlor next door was heaven!</p><p> </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-90420512164831744622021-03-08T10:45:00.002+01:002021-03-08T10:45:53.943+01:00Germany to Italy: Switzerland to Genoa<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--SXq1ZzBm4k/YEXqCBD_BEI/AAAAAAAAG6g/IiIh8_Jtn8ENHpZVO9Qnd2P3aF7TK9PVACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200727_201020-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--SXq1ZzBm4k/YEXqCBD_BEI/AAAAAAAAG6g/IiIh8_Jtn8ENHpZVO9Qnd2P3aF7TK9PVACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200727_201020-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panperduto</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Because Switzerland is so expensive I had postponed my next rest day until Italy where I booked myself into a lovely room in Gavirate at Lago di Varese. Unfortunately this lake is so shallow and infested with algae that swimming is prohibited. No problem for me: I just lounged in my room basically doing nothing except recharching my batteries for the next stretch across the Po Valley which would definitely not be a walk in the park in the summer heat. At least I had my first real Italian pizza in Gavirate although there was no paper menu. You had to scan a QR code with your smartphone to get the menu ...</p><p><br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JX1V2-gOZ9M/YEXrC8kAeJI/AAAAAAAAG6o/GeNzKd_DhrckBXL15Ynit-jNAvGa6usPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200729_205505-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JX1V2-gOZ9M/YEXrC8kAeJI/AAAAAAAAG6o/GeNzKd_DhrckBXL15Ynit-jNAvGa6usPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200729_205505-01.jpeg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ticino river</td></tr></tbody></table>The walk across Po Valley was as bad as I had expected. I had already known at planning stage that hiking here in summer was bad timing - but this happens in a long-distance hike. The E1 first follows the river Ticino which is divided into three channels at Panperduto. One for ships, one for irrigation and the original river bed. <div>Unfortunately I now had to walk around Milano airport Malpensa where planes were landing and taking off almost 24 hours despite Corona. I fled into a hotel.</div><div>Next day was a lot of walking along the channels: No other hiker, but literally hundreds of cyclists on this dead flat concrete stretch. I was constantly changing channel sides to get at least some shade! Luckily I found a wonderful campsite close to Ticino river and could take an evening swim to wash off all the sweat and grime. I did not need any sleeping bag or blanket these nights - on the contrary it was hard to fall asleep because my skin was constantly itching and I was dripping with sweat even in the shade.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zsqG6h49Ftk/YEXs3N8LpGI/AAAAAAAAG68/ZTi_zPETM-Ml77QjMMUGU6TTtC6qprSWgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200730_090129.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zsqG6h49Ftk/YEXs3N8LpGI/AAAAAAAAG68/ZTi_zPETM-Ml77QjMMUGU6TTtC6qprSWgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200730_090129.jpg" /></a></div>Beside the excessive heat two things were complicating the traverse of the Po Valley: First of all there are very few bridges across the rivers like Ticino and Po forcing the E1 into long detours on roads. The brigde across Ticino was a swaying ponton bridge made out of wood - half of the planks on the pedestrian side were rotten and broken ..<div>Secondly rice is cultivated in the Po Valley which need lots of water. I was walking along endless irrigation channels which could only be crossed on a few bridges forcing me to further detours in the relentless heat and humidity. </div><div>And walking along Scrivia river the trail disappeared into a jungle of blackberry bushes scratching up my arms and legs. </div><div>Worst situation happened when the E1 crossed a private property which was not only fenced off but guarded by dogs and video cameras. I tried to sneak around always ended up in front of "no entry"-signs. I finally just walked across and was not discovered. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eIIzDUEsjwc/YEXxJRPoCmI/AAAAAAAAG7I/VL7O0aV86kg5wqMGBwlpOmyBzsF2DoNqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200803_203258-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eIIzDUEsjwc/YEXxJRPoCmI/AAAAAAAAG7I/VL7O0aV86kg5wqMGBwlpOmyBzsF2DoNqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200803_203258-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>I had chosen the E1 in this section because the Sentiero Italia makes a huge detour across the entire alpine range. Now I was approaching the Alps myself and joined the Sentiero Italia on the Alta Via dei Monti Ligurii. God was I happy to see mountains again! <div>I took a train to Genoa where I spent two rest days. I was so lucky with my accommodation: It was on the top floor of an apartment building with a terrace running around it where breakfast was served in the morning. And this is the view from my breakfast table! Genoa is very hilly and very confusing with small winding streets but plenty of sights to keep me busy for two days.<br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><br /></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-20852175510843533642021-03-07T23:43:00.004+01:002021-03-07T23:47:58.856+01:00Germany to Italy: Switzerland<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2fiUpU9bBxA/YEVMJgOQU3I/AAAAAAAAG4w/G2AINd2poB8rBP_e-srg7s2k6agx5PAvwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200715_171750-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; display: inline; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2fiUpU9bBxA/YEVMJgOQU3I/AAAAAAAAG4w/G2AINd2poB8rBP_e-srg7s2k6agx5PAvwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200715_171750-01.jpeg" /></a>Knowing that I would hike along the Apennine mountains for almost three months in Italy I did not have much ambition for alpine hiking trails in Switzerland. I decided to skip the Alps as much as possible and chose the fastest and shortest traverse through Switzerland: the E1! This is the view from Hörnli, with 1133 meters the highest mountain so far. And as you can see the weather turned bad. When I descended the mountain in pouring rain I came across a litte stone hut expecting to find it locked. It was not only open, but a first class toilet where I could wait out the rain and even charge my cell phone and enjoy heating. When I discovered that even in expensive Switzerland there are chocolate bars for less than 1 Euro I was reconciled with this country. </p><p>The E1 follows a pilgrimage trail and leads through Einsiedeln, famous for its monastery. I liked the cheap pilgrims' hotel best were I stopped for a rest day to wait out the torrential rain - perfect timing!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jlbNd0ri4LQ/YEVOTqwIc-I/AAAAAAAAG48/ko9gI9ivICI_RtYXat8SynZmeFK_SdQmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200718_194121-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jlbNd0ri4LQ/YEVOTqwIc-I/AAAAAAAAG48/ko9gI9ivICI_RtYXat8SynZmeFK_SdQmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200718_194121-01.jpeg" /></a></div>I left Einsiedeln in sunshine and was overwhelmed by this view of Vierwaldstätter See! But not all was well that day! I had planned to sleep in one of the open shelters along the trail which are built for barbecues and picnics. Unfortunately two Swiss guys on mountain bikes had had the same idea and were happily enjoying there barbecue when I turned up. Jugding from the amount of meat and beer this was going to be a long night for them - I decided to hike on. It was almost impossible to find a flat spot in this steep terrain and I nearly despaired until I found a sloping spot in a meadow. There were even signs nearby saying: Do not stop! Beware of rockfall! I did not sleep well that night ...<div>Views of the Urner See were downright spectacular next day but unfortunately there was not much space along the lake side. Mostly I had to walk right next to a very busy road and even through a long tunnel where traffic noise was horrible! <br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y1A_F9kc3iA/YEVQVA2j9PI/AAAAAAAAG5E/8SBNI4Ryag8aKB61nZukI4P9XfKkYrK7wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200720_125157-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y1A_F9kc3iA/YEVQVA2j9PI/AAAAAAAAG5E/8SBNI4Ryag8aKB61nZukI4P9XfKkYrK7wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200720_125157-01.jpeg" /></a></div>The E1 now starts its long ascent up to Gotthard Pass. Originally a lovely route it is marred by the fact that two (!) motorways and a train line is running parallel to the E1. I admired the engineering skills but the constant noise was nerve wrecking. Still I was surprised to see literally hundreds of racing bikers climbing up to the pass. They can do it in one day, I had to find accommodation because wild camping seemed impossible here. </div><div>Things got a lot better when the main motorway disappeared into the long Gotthard tunnel. After 1,5 days of ascent I finally reached Gotthard pass at 2100 meters looking forward to long descent on the old cobblestone pass road called Tremola. I descended late in the day when all the cyclists and tourists were gone - what a delight. I was now in the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland walking the Strada Alta, the old "high road" above the Ticino valley.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lW4o7L3ArH8/YEVTUJazqJI/AAAAAAAAG5M/p5awWBq_gXkm-uMFMXBa4e-Uc9VgpnkOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200721_200234-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lW4o7L3ArH8/YEVTUJazqJI/AAAAAAAAG5M/p5awWBq_gXkm-uMFMXBa4e-Uc9VgpnkOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200721_200234-01.jpeg" /></a></div><div>The weather was now changing between sunshine and thunderstorms allowing me to take this incredible shot of a village church. I nearly missed it - I only turned around incidentially to see "God's fingers" behind the church. </div></div><div>Again finding a campsite in the steep terrain turned out to be a problem especially with thunderstorms threatening all the time. Although I was far away and high above the valley I could often hear the traffic noise. When the E1 finally descended into the valley and runs next to the Ticino river the motorway is only 100 meters away! Lovely scenery, horrible noise!</div><div>But after Bellinzona the E1 climbs up another ridge and leaves the noise behind. I could even see Lago Maggiore in the distance!</div><div>The E1 crosses Lake Lugano on a ferry that unfortunately only runs in the mornings and evenings. I did not want to be stuck in an expensive Swiss town and made little detour around the lake - in pouring rain. Rain gear is not very helpful in this temperature - I was getting wet from inside and outside!</div><div><br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tNjD_umLYVs/YEVVs48pd9I/AAAAAAAAG5U/itaL5cWQA5AwZEEX2wAwZ-WpE9UA3ogagCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200722_193001-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tNjD_umLYVs/YEVVs48pd9I/AAAAAAAAG5U/itaL5cWQA5AwZEEX2wAwZ-WpE9UA3ogagCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200722_193001-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ticino river</td></tr></tbody></table>It took me only 10 days to cross Switzerland from North to South with Gotthard being the only serious pass. There are definitely more spectacular routes in Switzerland but I still enjoyed this one - except for the traffic noise! It is a nice trial tour to get a good overview over what Switzerland has to offer - and then come back to explore more deeply.<div><br /><div>On July 24th I finally crossed into Italy in Ponte Tresa. <br /><div><br /></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-50511701238561918972021-03-07T22:29:00.003+01:002021-03-08T10:46:40.968+01:00Germany to Italy: Rothenburg to Switzerland<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P_t_mX9cMF0/YEU-sOmABdI/AAAAAAAAG4A/c9yyUDqzQ5Agb3h2GLHSLBRzCF0ISJZEgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200707_125546.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P_t_mX9cMF0/YEU-sOmABdI/AAAAAAAAG4A/c9yyUDqzQ5Agb3h2GLHSLBRzCF0ISJZEgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200707_125546.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blautopf</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The chocolate problem resolved itself easily because I was again invited by fans. I could just wash everything and was even given a Bayern München T-shirt while my dirty hiker clothes were in the washing machine (I am definitely no football fan!). And of course there was a huge barbecue followed by icecream with Baileys and cream for dessert! </p><p>Next highlight was the Blautopf, the "blue" source of a river. When I was buying two pieces of cake in the nearby supermarket bakery I was even two plates and two forks - apparently nobody thinks that one person can eat two pieces of Black forest cake ... Leaving town I was stopped by another hiker who asked me: "Are you Christina Stürmer?" (For non-Germans: She is a tacky Austrian pop singer who is probably half my size...) Because our names sound so similar I am often "confused" with her although singing is definitely not my strong side. After clearing up the confusion we had a nice trail talk though. </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q-1Dgjd7GJk/YEVBMNO6c-I/AAAAAAAAG4k/n2_RtityFf4l9QONoTtvdWaBcn8G-1KdwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200708_190722.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q-1Dgjd7GJk/YEVBMNO6c-I/AAAAAAAAG4k/n2_RtityFf4l9QONoTtvdWaBcn8G-1KdwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200708_190722.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Ulli in Ulm</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>HW 4 leads right through Ulm and I had timed this town stay perfectly because my birthday was approaching. I even had a surprise visitor: my old friend Ulli who drove two hours to treat me to my birthday dinner followed by ice cream! I spent my next rest day buying resupplies and treating myself with Black forest cake. (Ok, by now you know that I am a big fan of Black Forest cake ...)I left Ulm on the Donauradweg and made a little detour to Kloster Oberelchingen. I would have missed this gem if it hadn't been for Ulli who had recommended this overwhelming Rokkoko monastery. </p><p></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DaxlgG64lQM/YEU-toepwiI/AAAAAAAAG4M/ta0kzWb0ngwUYop9ZxfX9KCIALCaMNVuACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200712_122449.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DaxlgG64lQM/YEU-toepwiI/AAAAAAAAG4M/ta0kzWb0ngwUYop9ZxfX9KCIALCaMNVuACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200712_122449.jpg" /></a></p><p></p><p>This simple little chapel in the middle of the forest is no comparison to it but when I reached it, it felt strangely familiar. I sensed that there was a water tap behind it - and indeed there was one. As I do not possess supernatural powers there must be another explanation for my foresight and it slowly dawned on me: I had been here the year before on my hike diagonal across Europe from Ireland to Greece! Again I got some water here. This stretch of the HW was not too spectacular and mostly on pavement but I could already see the Alps in the distance! </p><p>This high percentage of pavement is the biggest disadvantage of the HW 4, on the plus side there are tons of churches and monasteries and endless orchards, although in the end I was hiking through hop fields which is not really edible. But in the end all was well: I took the ferry across Lake Constance and was invited by two ladies who treated me with pork out of the Dutch oven. I even got a quarter (!) of a Black Forest cake for breakfast. Thus fortified I entered Switzerland!</p><p></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-47282345429076802412021-03-07T21:38:00.002+01:002021-03-07T21:38:26.952+01:00Germany to Italy: Hof to Rothenburg<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qssi15o-Cvo/YEUvXplAD6I/AAAAAAAAG3U/uEbVSSgRMIYPNZ1N__UYmvKVELFjq8mtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200626_131554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qssi15o-Cvo/YEUvXplAD6I/AAAAAAAAG3U/uEbVSSgRMIYPNZ1N__UYmvKVELFjq8mtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200626_131554.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vierzehnheiligen</td></tr></tbody></table>When I got back on the trail almost two weeks later the weather had improved drastically. Unfortunately my first night in the tent ended with a lot of drama: I had switched off my cell over night to save battery life and when I turned it on in the morning it asked me for the PIN of the device. Me, still being half asleep, entered the SIM PIN wondering three times why the device did not accept it. And then of course my cell phone locked itself ... I was almost crying with frustration and really worried about an unvoluntary digital detox. How would I be able to organize logistics without my smartphone? Luckily things resolved themselves in the next supermarket with WIFI. The trick is to take the SIM out and then reset your SUPER-PIN online with your provider. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AayuYlRgjzA/YEUzOYOKDdI/AAAAAAAAG3s/VapcwNmk1Ucm9jFWqn29U751DJc6HqbwwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200626_191317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AayuYlRgjzA/YEUzOYOKDdI/AAAAAAAAG3s/VapcwNmk1Ucm9jFWqn29U751DJc6HqbwwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200626_191317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I was now hiking in my "Heimat" Franconia. Biggest highlight here is the pilgrimage church Vierzehnheiligen, an opulent Rokkoko building full of angels and saints. Most tourists spent more time in the adjecent beer garden than in the church, I stayed longest in the public toilets where I cleaned myself up after a hot day. It was so hot and sunny that I ended up sunburnt next day. I had to button up my hiking shirt up to the chin the following days. A reader had invited me over near Baunach where I could wash my clothes and enjoy a wonderful barbecue with Franconian sausages! What a delight!<div><br /></div><div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AZnP4jUhUbc/YEUyz4nVa8I/AAAAAAAAG3g/Oftsrv9jkpwvmDiivoLrB_K-z57AERmhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200629_143639.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AZnP4jUhUbc/YEUyz4nVa8I/AAAAAAAAG3g/Oftsrv9jkpwvmDiivoLrB_K-z57AERmhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200629_143639.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View over the river Main</td></tr></tbody></table><div>I switched now from the Frankenweg to Mainwanderweg which of course resulted in sweeping views over the river and vineyards. Würzburg was not directly on my route, but it took me only a 15 minute train ride. I had booked myself into an monastery turned guesthouse right next to the famous cathedral. Wonderful location with only one problem: Church bells woke me up pretty early. Which was good in the end because there is so much to seein this charming town. I had to visit several shops to find a replacement for my bandana and I ended up buying a package with five of them. In hindsight this was a good choice, because I kept loosing them all the way to Italy and came back home with none ...</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S7VRKwWD4h8/YEU3tn4AX1I/AAAAAAAAG30/dshFSk0HbmMHWHxS3CSHsSigHaiAPEQjwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200704_135329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S7VRKwWD4h8/YEU3tn4AX1I/AAAAAAAAG30/dshFSk0HbmMHWHxS3CSHsSigHaiAPEQjwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200704_135329.jpg" /></a></div>I was now on the HW 4 Main-Donau-Bodenseeweg. First attraction here was famous Rothenburg ob der Tauber which was chock full of tourists despite Corona. I don't want to know how this place looks like in a "normal" season. My main attraction there was the local discounter where I bought a hearty late breakfast. I guess it helps my enthusiasm for sightseeing to have breakfast first ...</div><div>Leaving Rothenburg I came across this strange wall right in the middle of endless fields, the only remnant of an old church. I walked along rows of blackcurrants and strawberry fields (forever). It took me a lot of willpower not to snack the fruits but dozens of pickers with umbrellas were harvesting and the farmer drove by constantly. I bought some strawberries in a farm shop instead. </div><div>Bad surprise in the evening: a forgotten chocolate bar had melted in my backpack and now everything was covered in sticky chocolate. My own fault: As a thruhiker you should never "forget" chocolate ....</div><div><p><br /> </p></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-42739352575423778022020-11-26T20:44:00.004+01:002020-11-26T20:46:06.841+01:00Germany to Italy: Görlitz to Hof<p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T79afbJ2aDw/X7_yqUTWTDI/AAAAAAAAGz4/lmESDGCS50YiYD2-RM3Ullo_QL1Kh-oEACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200531_153339.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T79afbJ2aDw/X7_yqUTWTDI/AAAAAAAAGz4/lmESDGCS50YiYD2-RM3Ullo_QL1Kh-oEACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200531_153339.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The official start photo in Görlitz<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>I started my hike May 31st - and for the first time I did not know at the beginning where this hike would eventually take me. A pretty bizarre feeling ... Of course, Deutsche Bahn was one hour late in getting me to Görlitz where I ventured to the bridge across the river Neiße and the German-Polish border. As a European it hurt me to see the busy border closed due to Corona, but I hope to be able to continue eastward from here in one of the next years. But for now I started hiking westward following the Ore mountain range. As I had already hiked these mountains several years ago on the "Kammweg Erzgebirge" I had chosen a different route this time - as usual mixing existing hiking trails.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oiBaYuAm5ZY/X7_0rxnAQ7I/AAAAAAAAG0E/Mo4kdSkTqQoal-RhEVPJVwsPhA6hXBkHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200604_100617-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oiBaYuAm5ZY/X7_0rxnAQ7I/AAAAAAAAG0E/Mo4kdSkTqQoal-RhEVPJVwsPhA6hXBkHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200604_100617-01.jpeg" /></a></div>Corona caused an expected problem: As usual I was looking for water in a cemetery in Löbau, but the faucets were not connected to city water - and public toilets were closed due to Corona. It took me a long time to find a public faucet in the heat. I was not very fast hiking either as I was passed by a horse cart on day one. I must say to my defense that there were two horses drawing the cart vs. me as a single hiker ...<div>This pittoresque popeye field was ribboned off with warning tape. I had first thought that this was meant to prevent cattle from entering. But while I was hiking along the field several cars stopped and eager photographers jumped out to take pictures ... When it started to rain in the evening I hastily set up me tent - and promptly busted the seams of my old hiking pants who were apparently too old for another thruhike. As I would return back to Berlin for a short break I could luckily replace them.</div><div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yMu-ikyCVIg/X7_5FyE45eI/AAAAAAAAG0Q/uh3myw0J4Lk145BwxMgUkKa2GsX1ynwNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200604_185701-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yMu-ikyCVIg/X7_5FyE45eI/AAAAAAAAG0Q/uh3myw0J4Lk145BwxMgUkKa2GsX1ynwNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200604_185701-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>I had also two interesting encounters: When I had stopped in the small village of Klein-Dehsa to start a new podcast on my smartphone an older gentleman came running out of a nearby house asking: "Do you want a stamp?" It took me a while to realize what he meant: He is the local trail keeper and provided stamps for hikers like on a pilgrimage trail. The second encounter happened in the small town of Mildenau where I walked through pretty tired at 7 pm on my way to a hotel in Annaberg-Buchholz.<br /><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ivzy8rvueVk/X7_-jvFRU2I/AAAAAAAAG0c/QOHt1whg4_gbwbKWx2HMJfIZLTZiXzHnACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200606_193645.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ivzy8rvueVk/X7_-jvFRU2I/AAAAAAAAG0c/QOHt1whg4_gbwbKWx2HMJfIZLTZiXzHnACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200606_193645.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chatting with Norbert</td></tr></tbody></table>All of a sudden this guy showed up with my book in his hands asking for an autograph! It turned out that Norbert was a long-distance hiker himself who had walked from Eisenach to Budapest the year before. He was following me on social media and had calculated from my route map and my posts when I would approximately pass through his town. He had been waiting for me outside of his house on a bench. Of course I signed his book and we had a bit of trail talk until - alas - I had to leave him in order to get to my hotel in time.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kQabp2fP1YI/X8AAG2bvrBI/AAAAAAAAG0s/TUmILGjS-rg5VDJ2YJsAdgGUQTAjMN4yQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200605_091352-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kQabp2fP1YI/X8AAG2bvrBI/AAAAAAAAG0s/TUmILGjS-rg5VDJ2YJsAdgGUQTAjMN4yQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200605_091352-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>In Klingenthal I could do my good deed of the day at a bus stop where I was having my lunchbreak out of the rain and devouring some goodies from the nearby supermarket, when an older lady showed up. She had just been at the hairdresser for the first time in months and wanted to take the bus home - but unfortunately the strap of her face mask had broken and she could not cover her nose and mouth according to the regulations. Luckily I remembered that there is a tiny safety pin in my sewing kit - et voilà - I had repaired her mask just in time before her bus arrived!<br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N3w44cd2a-Q/X8ADZGe50hI/AAAAAAAAG08/-njnJr6naUMIjTW6itIM6M2vfM9eB510wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200610_132200.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N3w44cd2a-Q/X8ADZGe50hI/AAAAAAAAG08/-njnJr6naUMIjTW6itIM6M2vfM9eB510wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200610_132200.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three-country border<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>This first section of my hike ended pretty wet and rainy in Hof after passing the "3-country-border" in the middle of nowhere. Here Bavaria (former West Germany), Saxony (former East Germany) and the Czech Republic (former Czecheslowakia) were bordering each other and the infamous "Kolonnenweg" led to the spot. During the cold war this trail had been used by border patrol and it was "paved" with concrete slabs with holes in them. Very hard on the feet and you had to take care not to step into one of the holes. The former German-German border is now a hiking trail called "Grünes Band" or "Green ribbon" but this concrete trail is the main reason why I am not very keen on hiking it. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jkYhJkXefJk/X7__6-yfOyI/AAAAAAAAG0o/mHaJZbVEhX4ge2_jCeiygoiYM1gQ8kD6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200607_164643-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5920557057591059630.post-78224845308446315452020-11-10T17:17:00.003+01:002020-11-10T17:17:55.672+01:00Germany to Italy: The plan<p> After I had returned from the Way of St. Francis Corona struck hard - Germany and most of Europe went into lockdown. For many weeks I wondered if and where I would be able to hike in the summer of 2020. </p><p>My original plan - to finish my hike Europe Diagonal by walking from the Alps to Greece - quickly vanished in the air. Several countries on this route like Bosnia or Montenegro do not belong to the EU and were closed to foreigners. </p><p>Sweden seemed to be the only country open despite all Corona mayhem and therefore I started planning a fourth European traverse from North to South, Finnland to Italy - hoping that I would be able to hike the Northern part through Scandinavia this year. But to my great surprise Finnland and the Baltic countries remained closed - and hard hit Italy was one of the first European countries to open up. By then I had had prepared the Northern section carefully and only had a vague idea of the route through Italy. If I wanted to pull off a major thruhike of 4,000 km I had to start hiking soon - or summer would be over.</p><p>Therefore I embarked on this trip on May 31st in Görlitz walking South not knowing if I would continue through Italy or flip up to Finnland. This was the first time I did not know at the beginning of a hike where I would be going ...</p><p>As some more days passed Finnland still did not open and with this uncertain prospect I eventually decided to hike through Italy this year. Luckily I had to interrupt my hike in mid June anyways for some presentations and TV shows and I used the time to quickly plan the route through Switzerland and Italy. I have never planned so fast and with so little detail - but I had to be ready within 10 days.</p><p>There are two long-distance trails in Italy: European long-distance path E1 which up to date is not complete and only reaches as far South as around Naples. Sentiero Italia on the other hand even has several alternative branches and is officially complete. For long stretches both trails run close to each other or even coincide. But past hikers reported that both triails exist rather on paper than on the ground. This was going to be an interesting hike ...</p><p><iframe height="370" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1TecylBzOv11z2wvWYmOHq4BoKSpZctjj" width="500"></iframe></p><p><br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0