Shorter hikes in Germany

Hünenweg

Bourtanger Moor

In April 2022 I wanted to get fit for the upcoming season and was looking for a technically easy training hike: Hünenweg which connects Osnabrück with Groningen in 327 km seemed perfect because it involves hardly any elevation gain or loss. Plus I had never before hiked in the Netherland which more known as a cycling than a hiking destination. 

I planned for an 38 km average which I miserably missed mainly due to my lack of fitness, bringing worn out shoes that caused me pain and to many sights to process with such a busy hiking schedule. 

The first third of the trail is dominated by megalithic graves from which the German name Hünenweg is derived. Highlight of this section is the "Hunebed centre" in Borger which vividly depicts the daily life of stone age people and how they built these enourmous graves using foundlings. 

Although the Netherlands is obviously pretty flat I was amazed by different landscapes. I hiked around the Zuidlaarmeer which is a huge shallow lake and crossed into Germany in the huge binational Bourtanger Moor. 

Megalithic grave

Despite getting wet feet in the swampy area it was amazing to see how this the effects of peat production are getting renatured step by step.

The second third in Germany follows river Hase, another big environmental project in which the river is given back its floodplains.

The last third is all about megalithic graves again, the main concentration is next a huge golf course. It is a stark contrast to see all the graves and then seeing well groomed men playing golf next to it ...

I was lucky to meet trail coordinator Anna Schulte who explained that the Hünenweg has just recently been opened and is still a work in progress. Although there is still potential for improvement like getting more trail of the pavement I really enjoyed this trip across a rather unknown hiking region.

Anna also revealed me another interesting sight along the trail: Litte trail town Haselünne boasts three (!) distilleries which can all be visited on a guided tour including tasting. (I went there at 9 am which seemed a bit too early for tasting though ...)

Jurasteig und Altmühltal-Panoramaweg

View from the Jurasteig over the Danube River

Both "Premium" hiking trails (235 km and 200 km respectively) are located in Northern Bavaria and they coincide over 50 kilomters. I have walked them 12 years apart - but encountered the same problem: These two trails mainly follow river valleys - especially the Altmühl - and this is where railway lines and major highways are situated as well. To make things worse I have hiked both times in winter when there is not much foliage in the trees and therefore traffic noise is even louder than usual. And this led to a bizarre situation: I was walking through nature reserves where any human intervention is forbidden and almost felt like in a primeval forest - if motorcylce and truck noises would not have catapulted me back into modern Germany ... I was so annoyed that I walked with headphones or even ear plugs to shut out the noise.

Kloster Weltenburg which can be seen from both trails

Other than the noise problem they are actually quite nice: The Altmühl valley is not only a paddlers but also a hikers' dream and the trails which are mostly routed high above the rivers offer wonderful views.over the Danube, Altmühl and other smaller rivers. Plus there is a lot to see: Kloster Weltenburg and Liberation Hall in Kelheim to name but a few cultural highlights. Although Northern Bavaria is definitely not the Alps you have a lot of meters to ascend and descend because the trail changes river sides quite often. I could have stealth camped as usual but as I have both times hiked in winter I stayed in hotels each night - and was surprised how relatively expensive accommodation is in this not very touristy area. In hindsight I must say that these two trails are quite ok (if you are not as sensitive to noise as I am!), but not a real highlight. I would not go out of my way to hike them.

View from the Frankenweg with the Franconian flag

Frankenweg

I might be biased because I am born in Franconia where this trail is located but the 520 km long Frankenweg is one of my favourite trails in Germany. Like the above mentioned trails it is located in Northern Bavaria where there are only only secondary and low mountain ranges - and a lot of agricultural landscapes. So don't expect untouched nature! But this trail's appeal is in its variety - it shows you all sorts of different aspects of this region from pilgrimage churches, calvaries and shrines along the trail to culinary highlights such as local breweries and bratwurst.

You come through charming towns, little villages with less charming smells out of cow stables and a lot of forest where stealth camping was easy throughout the way. Staying in hotels is also a relatively cheap option as this is not a very touristy area and restaurant and hotel prices are low for German standards. Natural highlights are bizarre rock formations and lookouts with sweeping views. I have hiked this trail in several sections of long weekends when I was still working and enjoyed how easily accessible the trail is with public transport. I like this trail so much that I have re-hiked several sections whenever I came to visit my former home and I prefer it to its counterpart "Fränkischer Gebirgsweg" in the same area. It is ideal for hiking beginners: Well marked, easily accessible, cheap accommodation and lots of variety!

Märkischer Landweg und Uckermärker Landrunde

What do you do when you live in Berlin and feel cabin fever, but only have a weekend to hike? Well, you hike in the region and luckily Berlin is surrounded by little populated Brandenburg which offers plenty of hiking opportunities. With 217 km and 155 km respectivly these two are my favourite hikes in the area and I have come back in different seasons to hike sections of them again and again. They are easily accessible from Berlin by train and can indeed be hiked year round. Even in summer you will hardly encounter another soul and in winter you the forest all to yourself. Summer is best though because there are plenty of lakes with crystal clear water and swimming opportunities. I have even tried out my packraft here ... Brandenburg is not a spectacular, but a very relaxing outdoor destination. 

Free camping is even legal in Brandenburg for non-motorized persons for one night in the "open landscape".