Now that I had realised how difficult the GPT can be I was wondering how I would fare on the next section, the traverse of the volcanic plateau of the Pueyehue. Marcus and Jennifer had already hiked it and told me to expect spectacular scenery but also lots of snow. The weather forecast was predicting rain and therefore I wanted to minimize my hiking time on difficult terrain. I decided to hike on an alternate route on dirt roads up to the plateau. When I asked to bus driver to let me out there all passengers asked me to stay on. "There is no hiking trail there", they told me - and I should have listened to them. Instead I got out and started walking on this dirt road that was completely fenced in.
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| Volcan Pueyehue |
Signs said "private property", but dozens of cars where passing me and no one stopped me. It was already 8 pm when I reached a security check point after 4 km of hiking. The guard smiled at me - and told me that there is no way whatsoever to get in here. This was the property of a former president and it is completely off limits. "We saw you right from the beginning but let you continue because we thought you might be a guest of the ex-president", the guard told me - and sent me back 4 km. Because everything was fenced in I could not camp. And when I reached the road I could not find a camp site either although it was now getting dark ...
Very frustrated I hiked on on the deserted paved road until I finally reached the entrance to the National Park and its campground at 11 pm. The very friendly owner was completely surprised by my late appearance and let me even stay in the dormitory where I was the only guest. He informed me that other hikers had already done the traverse and showed me a campsite with water on the map. This information was very useful as there is hardly any water up on the plateau - except the snow. Next day was supposed to be warm and sunny - and then rain was expected. I had to hurry to get up and down from the plateau before the bad weather set in.
Getting up onto the plateau was easy and the weather was fine but hiking on steep slopes and in snow and volcanic ashes was very strenous. Luckily I could follow the footprints of other hikers. Very exhausted I finally reached the campsite "Rio de Lava", right where a little stream comes out of a lava field. It was a wonderful and surreal place. From my tent I could see the volcano and the desert like volcanic landscape where the stream and the vegetation along it looked like a ribbon. And the water was ice cold! I took a bath before going to sleep and worried about the next day.
Next morning started with sunshine but I could already see the clouds building up. Unfortunately the route became even more challenging now. There was no trail or trail marking - only steep ups and downs and lava fields. I was just going around one when it happened: With one leg I broke deep into the snow. Although my other leg stayed outside I did not sprain or break anything and I could slowly wiggle myself out of this snow trap. But unfortunately my shoe was still stuck between some rocks. And just in that moment it started to rain ... I lay down flat on my belly onto the snow in order to reach my shoe. But as much as I pulled - I could not get it out.
Fog was rising and getting thicker and thicker as I tried frantically to dig out my shoe. My hand started freezing and I had to use my pot to shovel the snow out. But the shoe was stuck. I nearly started to cry although the situation must have looked rather comical. Eventually I could get a good hold on it and was able to pull it out. Relieved and with shaking hands I put it on again and hurried on. I passed several steaming geothermal areas where I was rather scared to walk on hot - and soft ground. It smelled of sulphur and my glasses fogged up which made navigation even more difficult. But finally - and much later than expected - I reached the descent and treeline! I could have kissed those trees ....
Next day was spent hiking in populated areas which meant restricted camping options. And of course I made the mistake of not taking a wonderful campsite because it seemed too early in the day. I ended up hiking till sunset until I reached another one which seemed perfect. Flat, hidden from the road by bushes and on an old grassy meadow. I wondered where all the holes in the ground came from ... and learnt in the morning that pigs had dug them. Not wild pigs, but domestic pigs who came to visit me in the morning. Luckily they were not too interested in my tent ...
Hiking was relatively fast now as I was on dirt roads now descending to beautiful Lake Maihue where I ran into more camping trouble. The lake was a popular holiday spot and everything was fenced in. I had already given up hope when I found the perfect spot right next to the lake. I took a bath and watched the sunset and reconciled myself with the GPT ...
Very frustrated I hiked on on the deserted paved road until I finally reached the entrance to the National Park and its campground at 11 pm. The very friendly owner was completely surprised by my late appearance and let me even stay in the dormitory where I was the only guest. He informed me that other hikers had already done the traverse and showed me a campsite with water on the map. This information was very useful as there is hardly any water up on the plateau - except the snow. Next day was supposed to be warm and sunny - and then rain was expected. I had to hurry to get up and down from the plateau before the bad weather set in.
Fog was rising and getting thicker and thicker as I tried frantically to dig out my shoe. My hand started freezing and I had to use my pot to shovel the snow out. But the shoe was stuck. I nearly started to cry although the situation must have looked rather comical. Eventually I could get a good hold on it and was able to pull it out. Relieved and with shaking hands I put it on again and hurried on. I passed several steaming geothermal areas where I was rather scared to walk on hot - and soft ground. It smelled of sulphur and my glasses fogged up which made navigation even more difficult. But finally - and much later than expected - I reached the descent and treeline! I could have kissed those trees ....
Next day was spent hiking in populated areas which meant restricted camping options. And of course I made the mistake of not taking a wonderful campsite because it seemed too early in the day. I ended up hiking till sunset until I reached another one which seemed perfect. Flat, hidden from the road by bushes and on an old grassy meadow. I wondered where all the holes in the ground came from ... and learnt in the morning that pigs had dug them. Not wild pigs, but domestic pigs who came to visit me in the morning. Luckily they were not too interested in my tent ...
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