Germany to Italy: Hof to Rothenburg

Vierzehnheiligen

When I got back on the trail almost two weeks later the weather had improved drastically. Unfortunately my first night in the tent ended with a lot of drama: I had switched off my cell over night to save battery life and when I turned it on in the morning it asked me for the PIN of the device. Me, still being half asleep, entered the SIM PIN wondering three times why the device did not accept it. And then of course my cell phone locked itself ... I was almost crying with frustration and really worried about an unvoluntary digital detox. How would I be able to organize logistics without my smartphone? Luckily things resolved themselves in the next supermarket with WIFI. The trick is to take the SIM out and then reset your SUPER-PIN online with your provider. 

I was now hiking in my "Heimat" Franconia. Biggest highlight here is the pilgrimage church Vierzehnheiligen, an opulent Rokkoko building full of angels and saints. Most tourists spent more time in the adjecent beer garden than in the church, I stayed longest in the public toilets where I cleaned myself up after a hot day. It was so hot and sunny that I ended up sunburnt next day. I had to button up my hiking shirt up to the chin the following days. A reader had invited me over near Baunach where I could wash my clothes and enjoy a wonderful barbecue with Franconian sausages! What a delight!

View over the river Main

I switched now from the Frankenweg to Mainwanderweg which of course resulted in sweeping views over the river and vineyards. Würzburg was not directly on my route, but it took me only a 15 minute train ride. I had booked myself into an monastery turned guesthouse right next to the famous cathedral. Wonderful location with only one problem: Church bells woke me up pretty early. Which was good in the end because there is so much to seein this charming town. I had to visit several shops to find a replacement for my bandana and I ended up buying a package with five of them. In hindsight this was a good choice, because I kept loosing them all the way to Italy and came back home with none ...

I was now on the HW 4 Main-Donau-Bodenseeweg. First attraction here was famous Rothenburg ob der Tauber which was chock full of tourists despite Corona. I don't want to know how this place looks like in a "normal" season. My main attraction there was the local discounter where I bought a hearty late breakfast. I guess it helps my enthusiasm for sightseeing to have breakfast first ...

Leaving Rothenburg I came across this strange wall right in the middle of endless fields, the only remnant of an old church. I walked along rows of blackcurrants and strawberry fields (forever). It took me a lot of willpower not to snack the fruits but dozens of pickers with umbrellas were harvesting and the farmer drove by constantly. I bought some strawberries in a farm shop instead. 

Bad surprise in the evening: a forgotten chocolate bar had melted in my backpack and now everything was covered in sticky chocolate. My own fault: As a thruhiker you should never "forget" chocolate ....