Greater Patagonian Trail GPT 12

I was now hiking in Pehuenche country

My timing for the my rest day was perfect! Like the weather forecast had predicted temperatures dropped and it started to rain as soon as I reached Temuco where I stayed two days to wait out the weather. Then I was itching to leave again because there is not really much to do in Chilean cities except hanging out in the mall and eat. There was supposed to be no more rain but the night temperature was predicted to be well below freezing.

When I arrived back in Liucara I passed a guesthouse and hesitated briefly - but no, I wanted to sleep out again. I started to regret that decision when it started to snow one hour before sunset with no protected campsite in sight. Everything was fenced in and/or crowded with cows. Eventually I was lucky! There was a small cluster of trees where cows had already created flat spots for camping. I removed the cowshit and squeezed my tent in between two trees. Although it really froze that night I was so well protected in my cosy little spot that I slept pretty well - and warm!

When I started hiking next morning it finally dawned on me that all the precipitation that had fallen lately was now lying on top of the mountains as snow - and I had to go over three high passes the next days ... Pass number one was relatively easy with very little snow and brought me to this wonderful Laguna. I nearly missed the turn up to it because the trail went through a "puesto" guarded by several dogs. Luckily the owner came to my rescue and even accompanied me up to the lake. "I have not seen anyone for days and am quite bored", he told me and was more than happy about our little chat. I continued and had a hard time deciding where to camp later - too many good options close to a river!

Before I could tackle the second pass of this section I had to pass another puesto where several people were busy preparing breakfast. This was Maximiliano Lagos and his eight year old daughter plus an entire family with kids visiting them. Maximiliano's daughter was hand-feeding this little goat that had been abandoned by its mother. She was so enthusiastic about her pet that she put it onto my lap - it seemed to like it and this photo became my favourite photo of the entire trip!

We chatted for at least an hour before I finally ascended up to the second pass which was completely covered in heavy watery snow. Although technically not difficult this was very demanding and my shoes and socks were soon soaking wet. The descent was even worse and on top of all that I got lost and had to bushwhack through impenetrable macchia. It was so bad that I started crying - and turned back. Shortcuts don't work here on the GPT!

View from the second pass - everything is still covered in snow

When I saw the third pass in the distance it was even more covered in snow and a lot steeper than the two before. Being on my own I did not want to take any risk and decided to leave the main route and walk into the little town of Lonquimay. There was even an alternate route going there. It was great to be able to hike at a fast pace again on dirt roads with no traffic. When I reached more populated areas I was worried about camping but found a wonderful spot right next to a river. I even had cell phone reception and could make a reservation for the hotel in Lonquimay. But on the GPT nothing works out as planned ...

Ferry without ferryman

My map showed a river crossing shortly before Lonquimay and I had even checked on Google Maps and Earth to see if there is a bridge. But what I had thought to be a bridge turned out to be a ferry - with no ferryman in sight. Of course there was no schedule either. Neighbours told me that the ferry man lives far away and only comes twice per day to operate the ferry - from 8 -10 in the morning and from 4 - 6 in the afternoon. But they were not so sure if he also comes on Saturdays ... It was now noon and if I waited till 4 pm with no ferry man showing up I was stuck here. After a lot of deliberation I decided to play it safe. I walked 8 km back, turned onto the main road and took the bus into Lonquimay. Just a normal day on the GPT ...