Tuesday, 4 June 2013

Cycling Scandinavia: Elbe bike path, hay fever and a hero at Globetrotter

Havelland-Radweg
The first few days in a trip are always crucial. All sorts of problems usually come up at the start and can hopefully be resolved. This being the first bike trip after 3 years I was wondering what would come up.

Let's start with the positive surprises: I had worried a lot about my left knee. Ever after the Pyrenees it had made strange noises although my orthopaedist told me not to worry about it.  Then I had banged it badly when I fell into a British canal two weeks ago. I was limping badly and really worried. But strangely enough movement seemed to help. So far no problem whatsoever. But other health problems have turned up. I had never had hay fever in my entire life but last year I had a strange attack. Back in Germany this year I discussed it with my doctor and he prophylactically prescribed  anti-Histamine. Well, I definitely need them! Sneezing and red eyes already started on my way out of Berlin. I don't know what I am allergic against but I would have a hard times without that prescription. And of course, my friends the ticks are back loving me so much that every single one of them wants to bite me....

Flooded Elbe River
Now to the gear department: No bike problems yet. My new tent, a Big Agnes Fly Creek 2 worked fine so far, although I have not had any heavy rain in it yet. Biggest gear failure so far: my Garmin GPS! I had downloaded free bike maps from velomaps for this trip. Everything worked fine when I tested the maps on my Garmin Etrex but after three days on the road my GPS stopped working. Error code "Storage full" and then the device would hang itself up. Even a hard reset would not help. This was a serious problem. Although I had maps for the whole trip a GPS is a great help and I didn't want to be without it. Luckily I still had my smartphone and I googled the problem - which turned out to be quite widespread. The problem was caused by a bug in the firmware and had already be solved in newer firmware versions. And it was usually triggered by the use of OSM and specifically velomaps. But how could I solve this problem on the road? I did not have a data cable and no computer with internet for the update - not to mention that I had no clue how to do that update.

I decided to try my luck with Globetrotter where I had bought the device not expecting much help. But on the contrary: When I called their shop in Hamburg and explained my problem they not only knew immediately what I was talking about but offered to do the update for me! This was much more than I had expected and I happily cycled towards Hamburg. The biggest problem was finding the shop as I had no map and no GPS. But luckily someone had lost an overview city map on the bike path and I finally found my way with it without using precious battery power for my smartphone. The Globetrotter guy turned out to be a real expert and after the successful firmware update my GPS works fine again. A huge thank you to Globetrotter and their customer service.

Flooded Elbe River
So what other problems am I dealing with? Not many! The weather is much better than expected and I even have my first sunburn. Only the wind is blowing the wrong direction.... And my butt is incredibly sore and I have chafed parts of my body that I thought would be unchafable. But this is normal for the beginning of a trip and I will hopefully soon get used to it. Other than that the trip has been great so far. I have cycled from Havelberg to Hamburg on the Elbe bike path which I have already cycled years ago. It is a great route. Very scenic and even stealth camping has turned out to be easy. I am just very happy to be cycling and not paddling as the Elbe is in flood stage like many other rivers in Germany right now after heavy rains in May.

Friday, 31 May 2013

Cycling Scandinavia: Day one

Start in Neukoelln
 I flew back from my little narrow boating holiday to Berlin. A hiker friend was accommodating me and we had a great time swapping stories as she had just hiked the Swedish C2C. I had already prepared my bike gear and just had to swap luggage. But of course there is always hundreds of other little things to do and I was busy for two days. Then, on Friday 31st of May I finally set off after the soothing words of my friend Nano that I am riding directly into a severe weather warning. I set off nevertheless and as always felt pretty horrible. The day I start a new trip I always feel pretty bad and wonder why I am doing all this.

As my friends had been teasing me I felt that I had to start cycling directly from Nano's place in Neukoelln. Taking the metro to the Berlin suburbs was for wusses I was told. At least this saved me 4 Eur for the metro ticket. I managed to get lost the first time in Tiergarten but managed fine otherwise. At 1 pm I arrived at Berlin city limits and things started to brighten up.  I actually cycled in bright sunshine and my bike path, the Havellandradweg turned out to be a very positive surprise. Hardly ever I had to cycle on roads, sometimes on bike paths next to the road but mostly on beautiful paved bike only roads.

Storm approaching
But eventually the weather forecast threatened to come true. The sky turned almost black and I realised I had only minutes left to find shelter. I made it just in time. I cycled into a small village and prayed for a bus shelter - and there it was. Two minutes later all hell broke loose and it was bucketing down. A group of retirees had not been that lucky.They came in 15 minutes later soaking wet and left quickly to get to their accommodation in the next town. I was waiting until the rain stopped almost completely. It had  indeed been a severe storm as I  saw the fire brigade passing twice.

I was opting for a short day. This was my first day cycling and I did not want to overdo it. After 80 km I passed through some nice forest and decided to call it a day. This was also the first time in years I was travelling with another tent than a Tarptent. I had brought a Big Agnes Fly Creek for this trip and wanted enough time and a good camp spot to set it up. Then the next test: would my petrol stove work? Yes, it did and soon Bratwurst was served before the next downpour. Alas, after dinner I discovered the first ticks on me.... But now I am happily lying in my tent starting to look forward to this trip.

Sunday, 26 May 2013

Cycling Scandinavia: The Plan

Bike touring in Australia
 In a couple of days I will return to Germany and after a brief stop over in Berlin to change gear I will embark on my three months cycling trip across Scandinavia. So what is the plan? The plan is that there is not much of a plan, only more of a rough idea. Last year I had to learn the hard way that fixed routes and finish dates lead to time pressure that can seriously reduce the enjoyment of trip. So on this trip I will try to avoid any time constraints.

One way to avoid time constraints is not booking any transportation in advance which is most easily achieved by starting from home. As the only thing I could call home now is the place where my storage unit is located I will start directly in Berlin. No flights to catch, no trains to board - I have never started a trip that easily.

From there I plan to cycle up to Denmark visiting friends in Northern Germany on the way. I will spend plenty of time in Denmark taking advantage of the extended bike route system there before taking the ferry to Sweden. There again I want to use a bike trail called "Sverigeleden" to make my way up North and cross into Finland. And now comes the beauty of this trip: If I run out of time or don't like it, I don't have to cycle all the way but can take a ferry over to Finland. Finland does not have that many bike routes, but there is the Baltic Sea Cycle Route and Via Finlandia that can take me to Helsinki where I will take the ferry to Tallinn. In the Baltic States there is the Baltic Sea Cycle Route again and the Tour LatEst. I could theoretically cycle from the Baltic States all the way back to Berlin on the international bike route R1 but I doubt I will have enough time left. But again: The beauty of this trip is that I can just take a ferry back to Germany from Klaipeda. So with all these possibilities of shortcuts via ferry I hope not to encounter any time constraints this time. I am planning on being back to Germany around September 1st to start my next long hike across Europe.

My bike set up
I was a worried about what to prepare for this bike trip. I have cycled across Japan and South Korea with basically no preparation at all and just a road atlas. So bike touring does not require a lot of preparation. But on the other hand preparation could save me time on the road and make decisions en route easier. Therefore I have bought most of the maps beforehand which was relatively easy: Only one road atlas from Freytag&Berndt is required for almost the whole trip! So 29,95 EUR bought me the maps for almost three months. Additionally I discovered a great free map of Denmark from their tourist organisation that shows all the national bike routes! The rest of my preparation consisted of marking the bike routes on the maps and reading a lot of guidebooks which left me more planless than before. In my experience bike trips are very spontaneous. You decide on the spot where you want to go and then go. You don't need bike trails and I wonder how much I will actually stick to them once on the road.

The other half of the preparation concerned my bike. I spent a couple of evenings at my local bike club and with my friend Wulf and in the end I had changed the oil of my Rohloff hub, put on a new back tube and tire, changed brake pads and gear shift cable. Already having a true and tested bike set up helped a lot. I basically just had to do a tiny bit of maintenance and get my old bike gear out.

I am most worried now about the weather. I have spent the whole month of May in Britain basically freezing my ass off. And now I am going even further North! I just hope the weather improves and summer finally arrives. Updating this blog will be another challenge: Usually I buy a SIM card for every country I hike in  but I'll be passing through so many countries in such a short time that this does not make much sense. I will rely on free wifi and my smartphone. Also I have not cycled long-distance for quite a since 2010 and wonder how I will get back into it.

Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Narrowboating revisited

On May 1st my sedentary life in Germany was over and I flew to Birmingham in the UK - but not for hiking or cycling. I was visiting my friend and former cycling partner John again who is now permanently living on a narrowboat on the British canals. I had already stayed with him for almost a month in November 2011 and had liked narrowboating a lot! Although it had taken me forever to understand the principles of steering an 18 m long narrowboat into tiny little locks my hard acquired knowledge had not been forgotten. Back on the tiller again I almost immediately became an experienced helmswoman again - until I banged the boat for the first time.....

Nantwich cathedral
But before we left our lovely mooring place in the Gas Street Basin of Birmingham I had a visitor: Andy Howell whom I knew from his outdoor blog. When I had learnt that he is living in Birmingham I had sent him an email asking whether he would like to meet me - and indeed he wanted to. We spent a couple of hours drinking tea and chatting - and this is the result. But he was not the only guest: I had sent out another email to Gayle and her husband Mick, both British long-distance hikers and avid bloggers. They have traversed Great Britain four times: Twice from Land's End to John O'Groats and also from Kent to Cape Wrath and from Lowestoft (most Easterly point) to Ardnarmurchan (most westerly point in the UK). Although I am not the greatest fan of hiking long-distance in the UK after my rather disastrous John O'Groats to Land's End hike in 2011 Gayle and Mick tempted me to give it another try one day. From their blog I have also learned a new statistical number: whinges per mile.... Gayle and I also compete for the title of most organised European hiker, but a look at her blog will tell you that she wins the price for the most ingenous pie charts on an outdoor blog.  I was very glad that the timing worked out to meet them as they were just about to depart on another TGO challenge.


Nantwich
This time we are travelling very slowly, only about 2 to 4 hours per day behind the tiller. This suits me very well as I have to finish up the research for my upcoming trips. We spend a lot of time in the little towns along the canal and as last time most of these places are very charming: Market Drayton, Nantwich and now Chester. A big highlight has been the National Waterway Museum in Ellesmere Port: an entire museum dedicated to life on the canals. Our entrance fee even allowed us to moor inside the museum compound.

So far I have managed to get myself into two disasters: A week ago I was trying to get the boat ready for departure and wanted to step back onto the boat. But what I thought is grass covered ground turned out to be grass only - and I slipped straight into the canal. My left leg got caught between the boat and the bank and I almost panicked: Although I knew that the engine was only idling I felt dangerously close to the propeller. Once I had extracted myself out of this mess I assessed the damage: Wet shoes and trousers were not a big problem, but I had banged my left knee and shin badly. Not good if you are about to embark on a long bike trip! On top of all that I had also bruised my ribs which made laughing and coughing very painful. I was limping badly for several days, but now luckily my leg is almost back to normal.

Lock gates
The second  disaster happened today as I prepared the locks to get out of the museum in Ellesmore. I had just opened the paddles of the lock gates when the whole lock area started to flood. The lock basin was overflowing and I realised I would soon have very wet feet! But how could this happen? I assumed that the flooding would stop when the lock itself had emptied but the flooding continued for minutes. I was clueless until John yelled at me from the lower lock to close the lock paddles - which was difficult enough as I had to wade through the flooded lawn. Then John explained to me what had happened. Someone had left the upper lock paddles upon and therefore I had not only tried to empty the lock, but the whole canal as water was continuously flowing into the lock from the canal. Normally the last person to operate the lock always shuts the panels and therefore I had not checked on it - big mistake! But as soon as the paddles were shut the flooding stopped and the lawn had just received a generous watering.... I did not even get a deserved bollocking from the museum staff. They even explained to me that their overflow system does not work very well and that had not helped either.


Although I very much enjoy the boating again, the weather is not cooperating. Seems like whenever I am in the UK something weird happens. This time it is an incredibly cold May. I am freezing at night on the boat and have even considered playing cards with my gloves on. I am wearing three to four layers and I am still cold - and this is May! I am only warming up when cooking which I love doing! I even brought three German recipe books to try out new dishes. So far at least no cooking disaster has happened. And although British cuisine is not the greatest in the world I love having cream tea at all hours of the day. I have to warm up somehow....



Sunday, 19 May 2013

Outdoor cuisine

Dave has posted a comment asking me to describe my diet on the trail - and triggered this post.

What I am eating outdoors depends very much on the activity. My hiking diet varies very much from my paddling/cycling diet (which is another reason to go cycling and paddling - you eat so much better....)

Let me start with my rather austere hiking diet. When hiking long distance weight saving is everything and therefore my food has to offer the most calories for the least weight. It has to be prepared with very little fuel. It has to be compact. It has to be non-perishable. That leaves very few appetizing things.....

Breakfast: Half a pound of granola eaten with nothing but cold water (sounds horrible, but you get used to it)
Lunch: Dehydrated package food. Not the fancy stuff you can buy in outdoor shops - this is way too expensive on the long run. I am talking about your typical supermarket pasta or rice package food. Depending on the country the brand is Lipton, Knorr, Continental, Gallina Blanca - but the food tastes the same. Variations are Asian noodle soup packages (Top Ramen is the worst, Asian produced ones are much better) or flavoured mashed potatoes.
Dinner: The same as for lunch - another dehydrated package meal
Snacks: A lot! Mostly chocolate - on a normal day I eat up to 300 gr of chocolate. In hot climates I substitute chocolate with Nutella in plastic jars and eat it with a spoon. But I also eat gummi bears, all sorts of nuts, granola bars, potatoe chips and whatever is available in the supermarket.

My birthday dinner in Alaska
I calculate about about 1 kg of food per day: 250 gr of granola for breakfast, 2 x 150 gr of package food for lunch and dinner and 400 gr of snacks.

When I hike in populated areas with lots of resupply options my diet gets better. I then try to eat a cold lunch from a supermarket like bread and cheese and some fruit and vegetables. And dinner might be upgraded to fresh pasta or sausages.

Still I usually loose weight on a hike - especially hiking in wilderness areas with few resupply options. I lost 5 - 10 kg of weight on my PCT and CDT thruhikes, but only little weight on my hike through Europe.

Things improve tremendously when I am cycling or paddling. Weight is not much of an issue then and I can indulge in better food. I carry a petrol stove instead of a gas canister stove. I carry two pots and a pan instead of one tiny titanium 0.9 l pot. I carry a big pocket knife with a nice blade instead of a tiny one. And I carry a lot better food!

Cooking on a bike trip in NZ
Breakfast: Will still usually be granola with cold water, but depending on the country can also be oatmeal or rice.
Lunch: Will usually be a cold lunch consisting of some bread type and cheese, sausage, tofu and some sort of fruit or vegetable.
Dinner: is the highlight of the day as I will be cooking on a nice stove with no fuel restrictions! Although not quite as good as cooking in a real kitchen I will turn into a domestic goddess with a camp stove! On my 7 months bike trip with John I cooked a 3-course dinner almost every night.... On my own I am not quite so extravagant but still cook something decent with anything that has been on offer in the last supermarket. On cycling trips I use a lot of fresh food like fruit, vegetables and even meats because I can resupply every day. On paddling trips I am more confined to non-perishable food like cans or long lasting veggies like carrots, onions or dried fruit. Having no fuel restrictions also allows me to drink a cup of tea or hot chocolate.

Monday, 1 April 2013

Plans for 2013

You may be wondering why I have not posted much for quite a while. But right now I am back in Berlin preparing my next trips in 2013 - and that turned out to be more challenging than I expected.

First of all I have a "positive" problem". I have too many trip options to choose from! When I started my "full time hiking career" back in 2007 I was afraid that I would soon run out of ideas. I somewhat expected that I would get bored after a couple of years and would want to go back to work. But the more I hike, cycle and paddle the more ideas I have for future trips.

There are a lot of factors to take into consideration when chosing a trip:
  • Exchange rates: For many years now I have spent most of my time in the US or Australia. The Euro had been very strong and the exchange rate favourable. If you can chose between various destinations and all seem equally attractive to you why not go where it is currently cheap? But unfortunately now there is the EURO crisis. Although the US is still sort of affordable, it is not really cheap any more for Europeans. And Australia and New Zealand is completely out of the question right now. So why not stay in Europe? I have always travelled with the exchange rate and so now seems to be the time for Europe. 
  • Diversification: I started out as a hiker and then slowly diversified into cycling and paddling. One of the reasons for the diversification was to reduce the risk of injury - and to avoid getting bored. When I came back from the Mississippi I was all stoked about paddling and wanted to do another long paddling trip soon. But for months after the end of my paddling trip I was still suffering from a paddling injury: I had overstrained my fingers and was suffering from a stiff middle finger. This seems to be a common paddling injury as all fellow Mississippi kayakers suffer from it as well. Although the pain is gone now I decided to give it a rest for a year. On the other hand I have not done a cycling trip for over 2 years - so I guess it is time to cycle again.
  • Finding new challenges: On each trip I try to do something new and learn something more. I am not always successful, but through trial and error I have expanded my outdoor knowledge. Not every trip turns out to be great, but I have always learned something. One of my last experiments had been a 5 week winter hike in the US and to my big surprise I had liked it a lot. I want to deepen that experience and do an even longer moderate fall/winter hike this year.
  • Learn from experience: 2012 had been a great year for me. I had enjoyed my 6 months hike across Western Europe tremendously - but I had sort of spoilt this very positive experience with constant time pressure. I had to finish the hike at a certain time to start my next adventure - with a flight already booked and a trip partner waiting for me. I do not want to commit the same mistake again: My next trips have to be open end. Also 2012 had been a physically demanding year. If you live outdoors almost permanently you cannot ask your body to always perform 100+%. You need a rest. You have to take it easy sometimes. 2012 had been a great year, but not an easy one. 2013 has to be more relaxing. 
Through all these factors I came to the following conclusion: I want to do something in Europe. I do not want to go paddling again this year, but instead do at least a bit of cycling. I do want to do a trip that lasts into fall and winter. I do not want a trip with time constraints for whatever reason like having to catch a flight or a season closing in on me. And I want something relaxing, although my definition of relaxing outdoor activities might differ a lot from most people's.....

Still, all that left plenty of options and I had a hard time deciding, but this is the result:

May 2013: I will visit my friend and former cycling partner John again who lives on a narrow boat on the British canals. I have last seen him in 2011 and had a fantastic time on the boat. This will give me the opportunity to continue my trip research and be a domestic goddess again cooking three course dinners for the two of us.

June - August 2013: After more than two years it is time for another bike trip. I was deliberating various options like the North Sea Cycle Route but eventually decided to just visit countries I have always wanted to see. In order to facilitate logistics I want to start cycling in Berlin and finish there as well. This way there are no planes to catch, i.e. no time constraints. From Berlin I will cycle up into Denmark first. This is a small country but I am planning to investigate it thoroughly. I am especially attracted by its vast bike trail network and the free designated nature campsites. From there I will continue up into Sweden and then down into Finland. Depending on how much I like it I will cycle all the way or take a short cut with the ferry. From Helsinki I will take the ferry into Tallin and cycle around the Baltic States. I have visited these three tiny countries almost two decades ago and it will be interesting to see how things have changed. If time permits I will cycle back to Berlin through Poland - or just take a ferry from Klaipeda to Germany. Why have I chosen this route? I like the easy free camping with the everyman's right or designated free camping spots. These are countries with lots of bike paths or very little traffic. And I really appreciate the various possibilities of ferry short-cuts relieving me from time constraints. 

September 2013 - January 2014: Hiking is my first and biggest love and I definitely want to do another hiking trip soon expanding the season into fall and winter. In Europe there are not that many options for easy winter hiking and it was a nobrainer for me to settle for Southern France and Southern Spain. Especially since I had enjoyed last year's hike there tremendously. But which route should I take? Several weeks I conversed with hiking friends, studied maps and hiking blogs. Again there were too many interesting options! Maybe the Via de la Plata, another pilgrims' trail that should be deserted in winter? Or some new hiking trails in Portugal,  a country where I have never hiked before?
The breakthrough came through my hiking friend Werner, one of the very few Germans who actually hike long-distance in Europe as well. He posted on a German outdoor internet forum that the E1, a European long-distance trail will be finished all the way up to the North Cape this year. He ended his post with the sentence: "Now the ultimate European hike is possible: Walk from the Southernmost point in Europe, Tarifa in Spain, to the Northernmost point, the North Cape." Of course I was intrigued! I spent half the night researching and found out that the Southernmost point on the European mainland is indeed Tarifa in Spain. I loved the idea to hike across Europe from West to East and North to South. Now I had a goal! Instead of "aimlessly" wandering across Southern France and Spain I would hike from Germany to Tarifa, and one of the following years the second part from Germany to the North Cape. All of a sudden everything made sense and a new hiking idea was born.


Monday, 4 March 2013

How to plan your own route for a long-distance hike

I have planned the routes for several long-distance hikes in Europe now, including a 1,000 km hike through Germany, a 2,000 km hike across the UK fromJohn O'Groats to Land's End and a 4,500 km hike across Western Europe. The planning for these long hikes has been very different from preparing for the well established America long-distance trails like the AT or PCT or the European pilgrimage trails. If you plan your own route, there are no ready made map sets or town guides you can buy, no other hikers who have done the exact same route who can share your experiences with you.

Planning the route of a hike yourself is time-consuming and challenging, but can be great fun. The more I do it, the better I get and the more I enjoy it. Here is some advice for people planning similar hikes. This post is geared towards planning hikes in Europe, but you might find interesting tips here even if you are planning your own route in other continents.

Planning a route for long distance hike of 1,000 km and more I go through three phases:

Phase 1: Rough planning

My long hikes usually start with an idea like hiking across Germany or the UK or finding a route across Europe incorporating the big mountain ranges. I always try to use existing marked trails as much as possible instead of creating free style cross country routes. This has several reasons: First of all I like hiking without having to spend too much time navigating. On marked trails I just have to follow the blazes. I only occasionally have to look at a map or my GPS to check where I am. This is far less time and energy consuming than going freestyle where you constantly have to check map, compass and/or GPS. Another advantage is that you can usually buy strip maps or hiking guides for established long-distance trails which ends up to be much cheaper and lighter than buying the relevant topo maps which contain a lot more information than you need - especially if the sheet lines are unfavorable. In the hiking guides or relevant websites for a long-distance trail you will also find a lot of useful logistical and tourist information that facilitates your logistical planning.

In the rough planning phase I therefore try to find a good overview map of the region showing all the long-distance trails. I personally prefer paper maps in this stage, but unfortunately these are not readily available for all European countries. Here are some good examples:
If looking for more information http://www.traildino.com/ is always a good source

Based on these overviews maps I get a very good idea of the feasibility of a route. Are there enough existing trails that can be connected? Are there many obstacles like long road walks or high mountain ranges in winter? When I have a rough idea of the route I proceed to phase 2, the detailed planning.

Phase 2: Detailed planning

Goal of this phase is to create a gpx track for the whole route. This track will be the guideline for my entire hike and therefore I plan the route down to the last meter. I am aware that I will most likely deviate from this route occasionally out of various reasons like short cutting, sightseeing, resupplying, seeing a nicer route etc. But I want to have the gpx track as a fall back strategy in case I don't have detailed map or I am just too plain lazy to find a better route. I also need a continuous route as a gpx track in order to calculate the length of my hike which is essential for estimating the time needed for the hike and planning resupply.

Again it helps to use existing long distance trails and connect them because they usually have a website of their own and/or you can find free gps track downloads for them on the internet. Good sources are for example:

for Germany: www.wanderkompass.de
for France: www.gr-infos.com
for Spain: www.rutasyviaje.es
for United Kingdom: www.gps-routes.co.uk or www.ldwa.org.uk
for Benelux: www.wandelwereld.be

Unfortunately, I cannot always link existing trails together. Sometimes I have to bridge gaps by planning a freestyle route. With freestyle routes I mean creating my own route using roads, forest roads and all sorts of other trails that are not marked and/or part of long-distance trail. I use Garmin topo maps or OSM maps as a planning base. This freestyle route walking is much easier in Europe than in the US because in Europe you are almost always allowed to walk on any trail or forest road even if it is on private property.

Still planning freestyle routes can be tricky: What looks like a perfect trail or forest road on Garmin topo or OSM can in reality be non-existent, overgrown, flooded, eroded or otherwise impassable. Never rely on a single unmarked trail that is shown on a map. Have alternatives handy in case that this trail does not exist or is impassable.

The accurateness of the calculation of the trip length in kilometers and time will depend on the quality of the downloaded gpx tracks. If these tracks have plenty of track points like one track point every 15 to 20 meters, the overall length of the track will be reliable. But very often these gpx tracks have been cut down to reduce the amount of track points. These becomes a big problem especially in mountainous regions. Your gpx track might have only two track points with a straight line of a couple of hundred meters between them. In reality there might be a trail with several switchbacks and a couple of kilometers between those two track points! This can add up quickly and distort the real length of a trail tremendously. And all of a sudden you'll need one day more to get to your next resupply point.... Always check the quality of the gpx tracks you have downloaded. The less trackpoints per kilometer is has the more buffer you should add to the length of your route. If in doubt I usually add 10-15% to the track length.

In this phase I also plan alternate routes. These come in very useful in two cases:

I try to plan shorter alternate route for the end of my hike in case I unexpectedly run out of time but still want to make it to the finish point. I also plan alternates for long stretches that can be difficult in bad weather like exposed mountain ridges. The better your map material is the less need you have to plan alternates because you can plan them “on the spot” whenever the need for an alternate arises. But very often I won't carry detailed maps for an area or only strip maps that don't show enough of the surrounding area to plan an alternate. Having a pre-planned alternate can be essential then.

On tour I don't want to solely rely on my GPS for navigation. Already twice may GPS broke on trail and I would have been lost without paper maps. I therefore try to carry paper maps for my route or buy them along the way. Again, using existing long-distance trails makes this easier because very often strip maps and/or guidebooks are available for them. In Spain look for guidebooks (topoguias) of Prames and in France for the “topoguides” of the FFRP. Of course I cannot carry maps for a several thousand kilometer hike. I therefore try to buy the maps/guidebooks as I go, but it has proven to be very useful to determine beforehand which map/guidebook I need.

If I cannot find strip maps/guidebooks or if I hike a long freestyle stretch I print out the relevant maps using the map material of my Garmin topos or OSM maps. Sometimes there are better free or cheap alternatives like
I very rarely buy normal paper maps when hiking long distance because these maps are too expensive and too heavy for my purposes especially when the sheet lines are unfavorable.

Phase 3: Logistical planning

Goal of this phase is to create a document containing all the logistical information needed for my hike. I'll carry this document in paper and as a file on my smartphone. Keep in mind that you'll need to have your route fully planned in order to sensibly plan the logistics. This little guidebook contains the following information:

Resupply: I can carry food for up to 8 or 9 days, but in Europe you almost always find resupply options more often, especially if you are willing to deviate from the hiking trail. Still, I don't want to find the next supermarket by coincidence with an empty stomach – I therefore research ahead where there are resupply options along my route. In bigger cities there will definitely be supermarkets, but it still helps to avoid long detours on pavement if you know exactly where they are. It is much more difficult to research resupply options in little villages or towns. Here are some tipps:

Research with google maps is quick and easy, but has a lot of disadvantages. First of all not all supermarkets are listed there. This especially applies to little mom-and-pop-stores. Also not all supermarkets that show up on google maps do exist any longer. Very often the data have been entered, but not updated. The only way to make sure that the store is still there is to double check with other data sources like a supermarket chain's own website or just calling by phone. This is a lot of work but definitely worthwhile if you are relying on one store with no other back up options nearby.

In Mediterranean countries shops are closed midday for lunch break. These lunch breaks are several hours long and can be anything from noon to 5 pm. If you don't want to wait in front of a closed shop with an empty stomach it helps to research opening times beforehand or at least note the phone number so that you can call ahead and find out.

In google maps you can save the location of a store under “my places”. You'll have to convert the waypoint then and can transfer it onto your GPS. Some supermarket chains like “Lidl” offer a download of all their locations as waypoints facilitating resupply research tremendously.

Consumables: These are mostly shoes, fuel and maps/guidebooks. For shoes, gas canisters and maps I try to locate outfitters along the route and note down their location, opening times and phone numbers. I use gas canisters and their resupply is essential for me. I therefore always call ahead to find out if they carry canisters and the shoes I need. For Campingaz canisters the Campingaz website offers a great international store locator. For maps and guidebooks you don't need an outfitter – any book shop will usually do. Again it is important to note down their phone numbers. Call ahead several days in advance to find out if your map or guidebook is available and let them reserve it. If they don't stock it, it can usually be ordered within a couple of days and then picked up in the store.

General delivery or poste restante: Although I try to avoid sending stuff via Poste Restante there are some cases when this becomes necessary. In some countries I cannot buy the trail runners I need and have to have them shipped to a post office along the route. If I already own the maps/guidebooks I need for an upcoming stretch but don't want to carry them hundreds of kilometers before I use them I ship them via Poste Restante. Keep in mind that regulations for Poste Restante vary tremendously from country to country. Always make sure what they are. Some countries only accept small packages up to 2 kg as Poste restante. Sometimes your delivery will be kept 2 weeks, sometimes 1 month. Delivery times can be unreliable and there always is the risk of loss. Always try to send a resupply package to a town where you are planning on having a rest day anyways. Then you don't have to worry about arriving on a Sunday.

Tourist information: If there are attractions along my route that I definitely want to visit I research opening times beforehand. I don't want to arrive on the only day when the sight is closed. If I know where I want to have rest day I try to research cheap accommodation like hostels and note down their phone number. This way I can call ahead and make reservations.

It depends on your personal preference to what extent you research logistical information. You can of course do most of this research on the go, especially if you are carrying a smart phone. Still I personally prefer doing most of this research at home where it is much easier with a fast internet connection, a keyboard and a mouse than with a tiny smartphone display and a touchpad. On tour I very often encounter no or very weak cell phone reception resulting in no or very slow internet. Also surfing the internet drains the batteries very fast.